Lita in London’s new Culinary Director Kostas Papathanasiou shares his life in food
Kostas Papathanasiou shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Kostas Papathanasiou is a London-based Michelin star chef, and Lita’s new Culinary Director. Kostas’ vision builds naturally on Marylebone restaurant’s existing identity – modern Mediterranean cooking with a strong focus on seasonality, simplicity and live fire.
A modern Mediterranean restaurant with an open fire cooking, in the heart of Marylebone, London. Lita, short for “abuelita”, brings a produce-driven, seasonal menu that celebrates flavours of southern Europe.
What are your earliest memories of food?
My earliest memories would be from my grandmother opening filo pastry and baking savoury pastries at home. The smells, care and simplicity are vivid in my memory.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
It’s both personal and disciplined. Food started as something emotional, a connection with family, but over time it became a craft that now requires focus, structure and consistency. Today is more about balance, respecting where it comes from while constantly trying to improve.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
Probably fried eggs on toast, I used to make it at home for my family and tried to perfect it every time.
How did working with food become your career?
It started quite naturally. I was always around food growing up and over time at a very early age it became something I wanted to pursue seriously as a profession. Once I stepped into a professional kitchen I realised the discipline, intensity and structure behind it and that’s something that drew me in because it was like a challenge. From there it became a career path.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
Right now, it’s overnight oats with steel cut oats, goat’s yogurt and berries.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
Crudités, crab and avocado salad, beef wellington and a chocolate dessert of some sort.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
At the early stages of my life, It started with family, my mother and grandmother. Professionally, I’ve been influenced by the chefs and teams I’ve worked with over the years. Being in those environments shaped how I think, cook and lead today.
What would your last meal on earth be?
Well if I had to choose I’d go for a five-course menu to have everything, since it’s the end!
I’d start with oysters and pearls from Thomas Keller, then soupe aux truffes from Paul Bocus. Venison and beetroot from the Ledbury. Hot and cold tea from the Fat Duck. And would finish with the chocolate tart from L’Ambroisie.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
It has to be a crips sandwich, salt and vinegar crisps, mayo, perhaps cheddar cheese.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Usually something like, eggs, avocado and tuna with toasted rye bread.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
Liquorice.
What are your thoughts on the London foodie scene?
London is one of the most exciting dining cities in the world. There’s diversity, creativity and a very knowledgeable and demanding ambiance. Guests are open minded but they also expect quality and consistency which pushes you a lot. It’s very competitive and it forces you to evolve and if you’re good at what you do it always rewards you.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
Cooking for others, whether it’s family, friends or guests in the restaurant – I love it .
What does food – sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc – mean to you?
It’s about sitting down with people, sharing time and creating memories. Whether it is preparing a meal or just enjoying it, it brings people together in a very natural way.
Food for thought – What are some areas for improvement within the London food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
More focus on people and culture. It’s a demanding industry and I think there is still work to be done in creating environments where people can feel supported, respected and able to grow. If we invest more in people, not just skills, but also wellbeing and development the overall standard of the industry will continue to improve.
Chef’s kiss – Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
One that stayed with me was the last meal I had at Frantzen in Stockholm while I was the executive chef there. It was a rare moment to step back and experience the restaurant as a guest. After being so close to it every day it gave me a different perspective on the precision, the flow of the menu, how all the details came together and most importantly how genuine hospitality makes a big difference. It reminded me how much consistency and teamwork sit behind something that feels effortless.
Compliments to the chef – Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
I have a lot of respect for Brett Graham and what he’s achieved at Ledbury. I’ve spent a couple of years working with him and I love the honesty in the way he approaches cooking, it’s all about ingredients, flavour and precision. There’s a clear identity and a level of consistency that’s very hard to achieve.
Secret ingredient – What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
Balance and simplicity. Balance in flavour, in seasoning and the overall experience. Staying away from anything unnecessary. When things are simple and done properly everything feels natural and effortless.
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