Make-up artist ZOË CLARK on putting your best face forward.
I NEED TO UPDATE MY LOOK – WHERE DO I START?
Fresh, glowing skin is in. I don’t think the heavily layered foundation/concealer application ever suited the typically Irish complexion. Equally, dark, sharp, overdrawn, severe brows are definitely gone, with only a subtle filling in of any gaps in the eyebrow shape.
STRONG EYE VS A STRONG LIP – ANY TIPS FOR FINDING THE BALANCE
I always ask, which is your stronger feature – your eyes or lips? If you have very balanced features, you can add drama to your make-up by emphasising both, but be careful that you don’t end up looking overdone or dated. To be safe, I would say if you’re in the mood for a stronger lip, tone down the shadow, and likewise use a softer lip shade if you’re going for a more dramatic eye.
HOW CAN I SLIM MY FACE?
Contouring is the answer, as dark shadows push features back on the face, and illuminating shimmers bring things forward. But be careful what product you use and remember, daylight or electric bulbs can show up everything. Too dark a shadow or cream can look stripy; too dry or oily a product can look cakey or greasy and patchy. The point is that it should look real.
HOW CAN I MAKE MY LIPS LOOK NATURALLY FULLER?
Use a lip liner that matches your natural lip shade and lightly follow the outer line of your lips. Don’t go overboard. The more modern way is to round the cupid’s bow. If your lips are thinner, opt for a lighter shade of lipstick, as dark lipsticks can make the lips look meaner. But if you do want to use a darker colour than your usual lip shade, pop a lighter colour or a slightly paler lipgloss in the middle of the lip to make them appear fuller.
WHAT ABOUT EYES?
To make an eye look smaller, I’d apply one shadow all over the lid and a darker pencil eyeliner in the waterline. So, to make an eye look bigger, you’d do the opposite by applying the shadow around the socket line, keeping the eyelid relatively free of colour – where you want it to look more open. Then, use a flesh coloured pencil along the waterline and your darker eyeliner along the upper lash edge. Finish with mascara.
LASHES: CURL VS VOLUME – WHAT SHOULD I DO FOR MAXIMUM IMPACT?
It depends on what look you’re going for, but I’d say in general, curl over volume. Too much mascara, unless you are blessed with long lashes, can make shorter hairs appear stumpy and clumpy. A quick tip is to separate your lashes before the mascara dries with a disposable mascara wand.
MY SKIN GETS REALLY PALE IN WINTER, BUT I HATE WEARING PALE FOUNDATION. WHAT CAN I DO FOR WARMTH?
I don’t mind folk using a foundation that is half a shade darker than the skin tone, but the face should never be darker than the neck. Use bronzer in places where the sun naturally would hit the face, around the hairline on the forehead and across the cheekbones, with a pop of a pink or peachy blusher to add warmth on the apple of the cheek.
YOUR HERO PRODUCTS?
Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow, €49, or MAC Strobe Cream, €34, for a dewy looking primer. For foundation, MAC Studio Face and Body, €32, on its own, or depending on the skin type, mixed in with a matte foundation like YSL Le Teint Touche Eclat, €42, or Bourjois Healthy Mix, €12.95. To brighten dark shadows, my old favourite is still YSL Touche Éclat, €35, and MAC Select Sheer Powder, €26.50, for where you need it. And, Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, €34.