Cake image by Clare Wilkinson
Irish chef Shane Smith shares his life in food
Irish chef and author of Loaf Tin Bakes Shane Smith shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Shane Smith is an award-winning pastry chef with over 25 years of experience working in some of Ireland’s most celebrated pastry kitchens. He is also a regular contributor to The Today Show on RTÉ One, and runs an online cookery school and has over 80k followers on Instagram.
In his first cookbook, Loaf Tin Bakes, Shane gives loaf cakes the spotlight they deserve. Who has time to fuss over perfectly layered cakes or 20-ingredient cookies? This is home baking at its best – warm, generous and just fancy enough when you want it to be. And best of all, all you need to get started is a humble loaf tin (and a love for loaves).
Here, he shares his life in food.
What are your earliest memories of food?
One of my earliest food memories is sitting at my granny’s kitchen table eating hard-boiled eggs. But there was a very serious system involved. Every spoonful of egg had to be topped with a tiny pinch of salt and a generous knob of Irish butter before you were allowed to take a bite.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
My relationship with food is deeply personal. Some of my happiest memories and conversations have happened around a table.
As a chef, food is also how I express myself and show care for people. Whether it’s a simple cup of tea and a pastry or a full dinner with friends and family, food has this amazing ability to bring people together.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
I think the first meal I properly learned to cook was a full Irish breakfast. Mam would throw one together at lightning speed and I loved the timing of it all, making sure the eggs and beans didn’t go on too early.
Then, after my first month in culinary college, I came home determined to impress everyone and made a classic chicken chasseur. It took me hours. My dad and brother came home starving from work and inhaled it in about two minutes flat while I sat there waiting for praise
How did working with food become your career?
I loved cooking at home and I went to an open day in a local hotel, walked into the kitchen, and was instantly hooked by the buzz and energy of it all. I applied for weekend work straight away and within a few weeks I knew this was what I wanted to do. A few months later I started culinary college, and I genuinely haven’t looked back since.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
I’m not much of a breakfast person, but if you hand me a giant mug of strong tea and a flaky pastry, I’m suddenly very awake and ready to face the day
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
It depends on the friend group, but I love starting with a big sharing spread of nibbly bits to get everyone chatting. For mains, it’s usually fresh Irish seafood, and because pastry is my first love, I go all out on dessert. I absolutely love the theatrics of blowtorching a baked Alaska tableside
Who is your culinary inspiration?
I take inspiration from so many people, but first and foremost it would have to be my mam and both grannies. They taught me from a young age that simple, honest food made with care is often the best kind of cooking.
What would your last meal on earth be?
A big bowl of creamy garlic potatoes!
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Has to be the holy trinity of lasagne, chips, and coleslaw. Absolute heaven on a plate.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
That would definitely be pasta. I love Italian food because it delivers such bold flavours so quickly. Give me pasta, butter, garlic, and fresh herbs and I’m a very happy man
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
I just can’t get on board the courgette train. I’ve tried so many times to like them, but I always find them a bit soggy and bland. I feel like I’m letting the side down saying that as a chef!
Sweet or savoury?
Sweet for breakfast, lunch and dinner!
Fine dining or pub grub?
Fine dining for me. I just love getting dressed up, going out for the evening, and experiencing another chef’s talent and creativity. There’s something really special about seeing the thought and care that goes into every dish.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
Hands down, Goldie in Cork, for the seafood lovers.
Best coffee in Ireland?
Cloud Picker, Pearse Street, Dublin.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
The Irish foodie scene has come on leaps and bounds over the years and can now stand shoulder to shoulder with anywhere else in the world. The level of talent, produce, and creativity across the country is incredible.
That said, I do think it’s an incredibly challenging time for Irish hospitality with rising overheads and costs across the board. There are so many passionate people working so hard behind the scenes to keep restaurants, cafés, and food businesses going, so I think it’s more important than ever to support local when we can.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
My favourite thing about cooking is bringing people together. There’s something really special about sitting around a table, sharing food, stories, and laughs.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?
I think there’s something really grounding about preparing a meal for someone. It’s a way of showing care and love without having to say it out loud. In such a busy world, food has this amazing ability to slow people down and bring them together.
Food for thought — What are some areas for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
I’d love to see more support and understanding for hospitality as a career. It can be an incredibly rewarding industry, but it’s also demanding, so creating better work-life balance and encouraging young people into the sector is really important.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
A standout experience for me recently was lunch in Comet just off Dawson Street in Dublin. My friends Ali and Dee treated me to it a few months back for my birthday, and I’m still dreaming about the food
It’s relaxed fine dining at its best, creative, exciting food cooked with incredible skill and passion, but without feeling overly formal. You can really feel the energy and talent behind every dish.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
The first person that comes to mind is my beautiful mam, Bernie. I’m not sure she’d ever want to work in a restaurant, but we were raised on honest, wholesome food from such a young age. And to this day, absolutely nobody can whip up a Sunday roast as quickly, or as deliciously, as my wonderful mam. There’s just something about my mam’s food, cooked with so much love and butter!
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
As a pastry chef, I have to say Irish dairy. Our butter, milk, and cream are, in my opinion, completely unmatched worldwide. They’re the solid foundation of so many great dishes and recipes. If you start with amazing quality ingredients, you’re already halfway there, it’s very hard to go too far wrong.
Cake image by Clare Wilkinson.
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