Everything you need to know about Simone Rocha’s menswear debut

From the White House to the manosphere, modern masculinity is in crisis. Simone Rocha has some thoughts about how we should proceed with a more delicate, romantic masculinity that is diametrically opposed to looksmaxxing and peptides. After 15 years, the Irish designer is finally making her menswear debut with her first standalone menswear collection for spring/summer 2027. Rocha arrived at Pitti Immagine Uomo, the men’s fashion fair in Florence, Italy, with a transfixing procession of romantic tailoring and utility-inspired menswear that didn’t just complement the womenswear offering but finally stood proudly on its own.

Here is everything you need to know about her debut.

Menswear’s new “characters”

Backstage, Rocha explained the show was a reflection on “contemporary masculinities, a consideration of gentle men.” As ever, she had specific characters in mind: the painter, the performer, the worker. Rocha transposed the hallmarks of her womenswear, the fluid tailoring with backless details and bow fastenings, ethereal organza tunics; leather aprons and pinafores to evoke her evolving narrative.

The cast of characters were dressed in smocked gingham shirts, rugby jersey in panelled cotton jersey with cotton wingtip collar, nappa leather coats, aprons and pinafores. The multiplicity of men’s fashion was on view, rendered through Rocha’s whimsical lens. (This cast was notably diverse: the show notes listed the models’ place of birth, from Germany to Senegal, France to China.) As Rocha explained, “here, realities collide with fantasies, clothes making the man.”

Soft masculinity is having a moment

Tunics in silk organza with trapped lace edgings peeked out from Prince of Wales check tailoring. Though gender boundaries have relaxed in recent years, it still feels relatively transgressive to deconstruct masculine codes with whimsical flourishes like trapped lace embroidery or broderie anglaise details, or rosette pockets on a bomber jacket. While vulnerability was central to the narrative, Rocha never lost sight of playfulness.

The men’s accessories

As always, Rocha’s accessories are covetable and inventive. Ribbed wool socks are pulled to the knee under square Oxfords with latticework detailing. Nappa leather ballet flats are accented with a single pearl detail. This season’s leather bags are a dream for men and women alike. Silk organza feather boas round out the offering with outré pomp.

Menswear’s most important stage was the backdrop

Pitti Immagine Uomo served as the backdrop for Rocha’s menswear debut. The three-day event attracts thousands of international visitors and spotlights designers ranging from Raf Simons to Fendi and emerging labels like Setchu and Soshiotsuki. This year’s schedule featured Brunello Cucinelli, DSM Kei Ninomiya, and emerging brand Sunflower. As an homage to the menswear tradition, much of the collection was grounded in soft tailoring. Her iteration of the male wardrobe is underpinned by tailoring, shirting, knitwear, and Oxford shoes. Everything is treated with Rocha’s signature “subversive vulnerability” with hand-embroidered details or embellished finishes.

The stage itself

The show took place at the historic Teatro della Pergola, an opera house in the heart of Florence. Plush red interiors complement the corniced ceilings and the dark wood floors of the stage served as the runway. The first model emerged in a double-breasted six-button evening jacket in Venetian wool with silk-satin lapels and narrow wool shorts with ribbed wool socks and nappa leather ballet flats. He carried a fresh cornflower bouquet, with hand-embroidered glass bugle-bead cornflowers. The show concluded with a convergence on masculine codes disrupted with femininity: a slick suit and sheer tunic. As Frederic Sanchez’s soundtrack to the show reached a crescendo, applause ricocheted through the theatre. End scene.

Photography via Simone Rocha.