Grá Chocolates founder Gráinne Mullins on her life in food

Growing up in Galway with a family that loved cooking, Gráinne Mullins’ love and respect for good food was harnessed at an early age. Setting foot in a commercial kitchen as a teenager only deepened her connection with food, and she began working part-time in the pastry section of five-star hotels.

Interrupting a science degree to move to France, she spent two years working in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Aix-en-Provence, and upon her return home, she worked in some of Ireland’s leading kitchens, winning the prestigious 2019 Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year.

Channeling the skills, artistry and joy she has learned from some of the country’s most talented chefs, this self-taught chef founded Grá Chocolates in her hometown of Kilchreest in 2020. Here, she shares her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

Baking with my mom with blackberries that we picked ourselves and apples from our trees.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

I love everything about food! For me, the kitchen is my happy place!

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

I remember making Christmas cake with my mum. She would let each of us mix the bowl and make a wish before it went into the oven.

How did food become a part of your career?

I started working in kitchens when I was in transition year in school and fell in love with the rush of a kitchen. From the first day I worked in a kitchen, I never wanted to work anywhere else.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

A yoghurt and some fruit. Or grab a cereal bar!

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

I always go all out! Maybe I put too much work on myself but it’s how I show my love. I would definitely have a theme and create a huge spread of food with everything made from scratch. The most recent meal I made like this was a Middle Eastern spread for all of my family!

What would your last meal on earth be?

Some fresh lobster dipped in butter!

What’s your go-to comfort food?

Anything home-cooked! A potato may have to appear somewhere on the dish!

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

I like to have homemade chicken bone broth in the freezer and I love to make it into a quick noodle soup when I need something quick, healthy and delicious!

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

Weirdly I really dislike both cauliflower and celeriac when cooked. I do love them raw or pickled or even fermented.

Hangover cure?

A can of Coke and a rasher sandwich.

Sweet or savoury?

Savoury. I think I have so much access to sweet treats that I always crave something salty.

Fine dining or pub grub?

Fine dining!

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

I have too many favourites! It’s impossible to pick just one.

Best coffee in Ireland?

I have actually cut out coffee but I always go for Cloud Picker for any gifts.

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

Sparkling water.

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

The Irish food scene is just getting better and better. From producers to chefs, we are so lucky to have so much variety. We have an incredible island and it’s great to see how proud we are of it!

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

It gives me so much peace. I love ingredients coming together to make incredible food.

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?

For me, it’s a time to stop and appreciate the company, the food and the time. It’s important to stop and appreciate how lucky we are in the moment.

Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

Yes, no matter what industry we are in there is always room for improvement. We always have to try and better ourselves and the environments we are in. I think this especially applies to how we treat chefs and how they are paid. We need to look at if our current model is sustainable and right now it is not.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

I recently ate in The Kitchen in London and it was easily the best dining experience of my life.

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

I want to praise my parents for their home-cooked approach to everything they eat. They love good food and eat mainly from my mother’s garden. They eat fresh delicious food and are always learning new techniques to make their food delicious. They always make time for home-cooked food and never look for the convenience of fast food.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

It’s all about the entire experience, so thinking about the tablescape, the lighting, the music – all of these come together to give you the perfect dining experience.