Photography by Ruth Calder-Potts
Chef Mark Ahessy of The Old Spot shares his life in food
Mark Ahessy shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Having just been added to the Michelin Guide, The Old Spot in Sandymount was praised for its “traditional, immensely satisfying food; a buzzing atmosphere; and some of the friendliest, most genuine service around.” The location has also won the title of Best Customer Service of the Year in Ireland at the 2024 Food & Wine Awards.
Chef Mark Ahessy shares his life in food.
What are your earliest memories of food?
One of my earliest food memories is being down in Kerry for the summer with my mother. We had a little caravan perched on a hill overlooking O’Carroll’s Cove. After long days of playing and getting up to all sorts of mischief, I’d head back up to the caravan, where Mam would make me Sneem black pudding on brown bread with Ballymaloe relish before bed. I absolutely loved it and I still do.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
My relationship with food is a passionate, creative and heartfelt. I don’t cook to impress, I cook to express myself and cook the things that make me happy and hopefully everyone else that eats my food too. I love it all, from the technical refined dishes to the humble comforting plates that nourish your body and warm your soul.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
The first meal I learned to cook was chilli con carne.
How did working with food become your career?
When I was about sixteen, I didn’t really know what I wanted to do. I hated school and had very little sense of direction. We had a chalet at home that we used to rent out, and one summer a chef named Tim Phelan moved in who was working in a country house hotel down the road. One evening I was outside sneaking a cigarette and we got talking. We ended up hanging out a bit, and he’d do some cooking. I tried squid for the first time, and even pasta with pesto and sun-dried tomatoes—which was a revelation to me at the time. Something sparked. I started to take an interest. He invited me into the hotel one night to see what it was like. My first job was peeling roasted red peppers, but as I did, I was watching the kitchen, taking in the energy and the buzz of service. A year later, I left school and went to work there.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
I don’t normally eat breakfast but when I do its usually a full Irish.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
I usually keep it pretty simple and just cook some really good meat and some sides. When I’ve got a bit more time I might make a slow braised short rib lasagne, which always goes down well.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
I really like what Tom Kerridge has done with pub food, Francis Mallmann, Niklas Ekstedt, there are so many inspiring people doing great things.
What would your last meal on earth be?
A double cheese burger.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Beans on toast with loads of cheese and black pepper.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Some form of pasta or a toastie.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
Anise.
Hangover cure?
A Chinese or more pints.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury.
Fine dining or pub grub?
I love both.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
That’s really hard to say but I loved Uno Mas and Etto. I love Pickle, another favourite is Mulcahy’s down in Kenmare. It’s where I got my first introduction to fine dining and Bruce has been there in the kitchen since, consistently cooking gorgeous tasty food along with really warm hospitality. But if I’m honest, the restaurant we frequent to most is probably The Old Spot. I just love the vibe there, love the team. It’s the kind of food I love to eat and there is always a great atmosphere I don’t know if that’s a rare thing or not but I feel very lucky.
Best coffee in Ireland?
My fiancé’s, if not that we usually head over to Grangecon Kitchen to grab one.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
I think Ireland is a great place for food now, we have amazing produce and very exciting things happening.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
My favourite thing about cooking is getting some good produce and turning it into something really tasty. I love the whole precess and of course bringing people together and making them happy — that’s a bonus.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?
There is nothing I love more than being at home, playing some records and cooking for friends or family with a nice glass of wine. Not everyone likes cooking, but most people love eating and tasty food is something I can give them.
Food for thought — What are some areas for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
I think the pub food scene in Ireland could and should be a lot better.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
The most stand out meals I’ve had recently were The Bishop’s Buttery in the Cashel Palace Hotel, and Allta a while back.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
My brother is a really good cook and loves food, he did Christmas dinner just gone and it was top notch, I think my favourite to date.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
A perfect dining experience for me is is a couple of aperitifs, some delicious food with great company and beautiful wine, a couple more drinks after dinner and then hit the horizontal.
Photography by Ruth Calder-Potts.
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