Founder of Black Axe Mangal, Lee Tiernan shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Black Axe Mangal is a London institution, founded by Lee Tiernan in 2015. The restaurant built a cult following for its Turkish-inspired mangal cooking, punk ethos, and heavy metal soundtrack. Bold, boundary-pushing food with a seriously devoted fanbase among chefs and critics alike.
On June 6, for one night only, Black Axe Mangal will be popping up at Hen’s Teeth for an evening featuring a five-course menu of BAM classics with a twist, music from Wasman, and DJs TBA. Tables are available for groups of 2, 4, or 6 and there’ll be a complimentary pint of Guinness to kick things off.
What are your earliest memories of food?
I would say eating my nan’s roast potatoes.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
Complicated.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
My mum and dad worked lots of jobs. Mum would make a plan for meals that I could cook and take care of myself. I’d say boil in the bag cod in butter sauce with panne pasta, and if I was feeling really fancy, I’d go for a few slices of raw red pepper on top. I thought I was a true gourmet.
How did working with food become your career?
Accidentally. I was more interested in the camaraderie aspect of the kitchen when I first got into it. The appreciation for the food came shortly after that. Food and cooking was the first thing I felt I could be good at and enjoy, school was a chore for me. Teachers told me I wouldn’t amount to anything, you start to believe that after a while. Up until cooking came along I’d always lacked a bit of ambition. That all changed when I started working at St John.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
I love a fry, bigger the better but can’t do that everyday. I like a savory breakfast, I’m a big fan of marmite on toast and a mug of tea.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
That’s a good one. My friends and family are quite easily impressed so the pressure isn’t too high. It depends on the occasion. I always cook outside over fire whenever I can so lighting up the BBQ and grilling a few hunks of meat is usually where I land if we are having people over.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
Fergus Henderson. I got to work with my food hero for 11 years, he taught me so much about food, approach and attitude. His global influence is huge. He also taught me the importance of a good lunch.
What would your last meal on earth be?
Bacon, cabbage and mash.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Bacon, cabbage and mash.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Hummus and crackers. It’s been known for me to consume a whole tub of hummus while standing in front of the fridge with the door open. I like eating left overs. Fried eggs over rice with a spoon of chilli crisp is a go to for me too.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
Celery.
Hangover cure?
Hair of the dog.
Sweet or savoury?
Savory.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Pub grub.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
That’s a tough question. We head to Baltimore for New Years whenever we can. Lots of long walks and beaches. We almost always end up in O’Sullivans in Crookhaven, Co. Cork at some point. Great craic, fantastic food. Chowder is obviously an absolute must.
Best coffee in Ireland?
I am more of a tea man. I don’t really drink coffee. If I was going to drink coffee, it’d be an Irish Coffee.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
It’s one of the most exciting scenes right now, lots of great chefs cooking with such confidence and attention to detail. So many solid restaurants and bars knocking it out the park. Can’t ignore the support and positive impact some key influencers are having on the scene either.
Tickets for Black Axe Mangal at Hen’s Teeth on June 6 are on sale now.
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