Chef Mikael Svensson of the two Michelin-starred Kontrast in Oslo shares his life in food
Mikael Svensson shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Mikael Svensson is the chef and owner of the two Michelin-starred and green-starred Kontrast in Oslo, celebrated for its thoughtful approach to hyper-seasonal, local, organic and wild ingredients. Mikael’s dishes evolve not only with the seasons, but with what the Norwegian climate allows, with around 98% of the kitchen’s produce sourced locally, and only a small fraction (such as saffron, caviar or truffle) coming from elsewhere.
In 2020, Mikael co-founded b.culture alongside co-owner Will Moffat, born from the idea of transforming byproducts from Kontrast into new, sustainable ingredients. Initially focused on creating a miso that wasn’t available in Norway, b.culture now uses fermentation and other techniques to repurpose everything from seafood trims to vegetables and dairy into premium, organic products. Over the past five years, it has expanded to supply leading restaurants across Norway and Sweden, and is now exporting internationally. b.culture was also recently featured in the National Museum’s New Nordic Cuisine exhibition for its circular approach to ingredient use.
Here, he shares his life in food.
What are your earliest memories of food?
When I was a child, I spent the summers with my family and food was a big part of my childhood. My father used to do a lot of grilling, and one of my earliest memories would be smelling the meat hitting the fire and the charcoal smoke, which always made me super excited. My mum made the sides, and one of them was always fresh new potatoes, cooked with butter and garlic.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
It’s one of the great pleasures in life, not just what you eat but also sitting down together, sharing a meal with family or friends. Going out for dinner with someone and experiencing that someone put a lot of pride and effort into making something delicious. I love food, trying new things, flavours, and texture combinations. Both to cook and test for myself, but also to be a diner or a tourist when you go abroad and see new cultures.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
I would say it is the Swedish dish Pytt-i-panna; where you dice potatoes, onions and meat into cubes and pan fry them all together. We used to make a version of it at home with leftover meat and leftover boiled potatoes, then you eat it with a pan-fried egg and pickled beets.
How did working with food become your career?
We had some internships in school before I chose to go to college in Sweden. I was in a kitchen in my home village. The atmosphere in the kitchen and the fact that you did different tasks appealed to me but it wasn’t a given to become a cook. I started going in a different direction, but eventually got into culinary school at college and when I was there, I felt it was right.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
A cup of black coffee. Then it depends on what’s in the house…
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
At home, I like to cook different foods than what I do for work. I love to fire up my grill outside in the summer and grill some big cuts of meat or a whole fish like trout or turbot. Then just some seasonal greens, maybe a tomato salad and a herb dressing.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
There are so many that are so good and easy to be inspired by, and I have been working with a lot of great cooks both here at my own restaurant and before. But Heston Blumenthal, for sure, the way he changed a lot of how cooking is done. Sayan Isaksson has always been an inspiration, as has Mathias Dahlgren, and Quique Dacosta.
What would your last meal on earth be?
Tough choice. Either it would be pan-fried, breaded herring with mashed potatoes, lingonberry jam, and brown butter or it would be a nice grilled côte de boeuf, with some grilled peppers, a tomato salad and some chimichurri. But since it’s my last meal, I would take the herring as a starter and the beef as a main course, if I can.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
A well-made, juicy burger.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
A nice pasta with a tomato sauce.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
I don’t think I have one. Sure, I have had some bad versions of some things, but then, once most food is made right, it’s not bad after all.
Hangover cure?
Sushi.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Depends on the mood.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
That there is so much to explore, test and try and when you get instant feedback on your work, it makes you feel good. The joy and pleasure you see when you’re cooking something great that the people around you enjoy, whether it’s a nice breakfast at home for the family or guests at the restaurant.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment — mean to you?
It’s one of the greatest joys in life. Sharing a meal with people you care for and love is one of the greatest pleasures in life.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
I went to Alchemist in Copenhagen last year, it was mind-blowing.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
Talldungen restaurant, back home in the village I’m from. How they have established their restaurant there is incredible. The atmosphere in the summer, the food, local ingredients are cooked simply, but just right. The wine list. I just love it when I go back every summer.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
The quality of ingredients you cook with.
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