A definitive Malta itinerary when splitting your stay between Mdina and Valletta
If you want to enjoy the perfect mix of rich history, staggering beauty, Michelin-starred restaurants, local haunts and creative fun, these are the places to swing by when visiting Malta.
Planning a holiday to Malta this summer? You’ll get all bases covered if you follow this itinerary to a tee.
Where to stay in Mdina
The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux
Mdina itself is, in many ways, an open museum. Everywhere you look, there’s history, and the way the sunlight hits the limestone only compounds that feeling of significance you get while wandering through the streets and alleyways of the former capital of Malta. Set in a 17th century building tucked away in the fortified city, The Xara Palace is perched on centuries-old bastions, surrounded by stunning baroque architecture.
It is luxury through and through, from the very first moment you walk through the door. An exclusive, five-star boutique hotel, the palace has 17 decadent rooms and suites, each with its own unique look and feel, and its own on-site exclusive Michelin Star restaurant, de Mondion. I arrived late in the evening, so the views outside were curtained in darkness, but the lobby itself was as breathtaking as any sweeping view, containing an exhibition of local art and some choice pieces that reflect the building’s former noble standing.
Suffice to say, once I came face to face with the luxurious Parisian fabrics and king size beds in my room, I was diving head first into a dream sleep. Under the director of brother and sister Nicola and Justin, the entire team exuded such a special energy — speaking with the staff, whether that’s getting recommendations over breakfast or directions at check-in, their spirit became a true highlight of my stay.
Where to eat in Mdina
de Mondion at The Xara Palace
The Xara Palace has three dining options that vary from more casual bites to more refined fare, but it’s their Michelin Star restaurant, de Mondion, that continues to live in my head rent-free to this day. Set into the bastion walls, offering breathtaking views of the island and soul nourishing cuisine made from seasonal produce, it is consistently rated amongst the top restaurants in Malta and it’s no mystery why.
The Taste of Malta dinner menu is in a constant state of flux, adapting with the seasons and bringing in the very best of local produce. The wait staff serve each dish with synchronised flair, making the dining experience feel like a choreographed routine that makes you excited to see what the next act brings. There’s even a ‘Childhood Memories’ dessert course that sees the chef take a modern, elegant spin on a classic sweet treat from his memories of food growing up. Chef’s kiss, genuinely.
What to do in Mdina
Cultural and historical
St. Paul’s Cathedral and Casa Gourgion: A Nobleman’s Home museum are must-visits while staying in Mdina. In a city known for its filigree and intricacies, there’s no better way to zero in on the details of ancient art pieces, architecture, and the ways of living from days gone by. It deepens your understanding of the place and its people, which is an important part of the journey when visiting some place new.
Shopping and craft
Ta’ Qali Crafts Village was one of my favourite stops of our trip, and something that was recommended to us time and again by locals. Located in the former RAF wartime air-field, it’s a whole village of different kinds of crafts and beautiful artefacts sold and created by local experts. From Mdina glass to goldsmiths filigree and the most beautiful sculptures, lace and jewellery, you could lose hours browsing here.
Nearby fun
A wine tasting overlooking a gorgeous, sun-soaked vineyard? Go on then. Ta’Betta Wine Estate is set in the Maltese countryside just a short drive from Mdina’s walled city, and their tasting room is an intimate and exclusive space, offering panoramic views that stretch from the medieval city of Mdina to the North, to the port city of Valletta and the sparkling Mediterranean coast to the East. Taking you on a journey through their vineyards and cellar, where every glass tells a story of craftsmanship and tradition, the experience culminates in a tasting experience where you’ll gain a genuine appreciation and knowledge of this region’s incredible wines.
Where to stay in Valletta
Iniala Harbour House
A holiday of two perfect halves is best split between Mdina and Valletta, so you’ll get a good dose of history and a slower pace, then swapping it for a more fast-moving, ultra cool destination. Located on the prestigious and historic St. Barbara Bastion, Iniala Harbour House & Residences is the hottest five-star hotel in Malta’s capital of cool, Valletta.
Spread across four exquisite Maltese townhouses and their ancient vaults, dating back to the 1600s, Iniala has 23 uniquely designed rooms and suites. Founded by philanthropist Mark Weingard in August 2021, the hotel which overlooks the famous Grand Harbour, sets new standards for world-class service and eye-catching urban design. A Five-Star Forbes Travel Guide property and holder of two Michelin Keys, Iniala Valletta is recognised for the quality of its experience, service, and character.
I stayed in the The Lucija Grand Pool Residence room, which brings together two individually designed bedrooms with en suite bathrooms, a living and dining area, and three balconies overlooking the Grand Harbour. A private courtyard with plunge pool and lounging area adds a further layer of space, while distinctive interiors and expressive details create a setting shaped for elevated city living. It’s also played host to quite a few well known names over the years, so you know you’re in the right place!
Where to eat in Valletta
ION Harbour by Simon Rogan
Iniala Harbour House is home to the renowned two Michelin star ION Harbour curated by the prestigious Chef Simon Rogan, where seasonality and local produce inspire an ever-changing menu. From the vantage point on the fourth floor of the hotel, guests can take in the most spectacular views of Valletta’s Grand Harbour whilst enjoying an unforgettable dining experience. Simon and his team are on a quest to fully explore what the island has to offer so that each dish champions the abundant Maltese produce.
Together with their head of sustainability, Keith Abela, executive chef, Oli Marlow, and head chef Christian Cali, the team have created menus which champion suppliers and growers who are environmentally conscious and passionate about their craft. With a multi-course tasting menu for both lunch and dinner, as well as a shorter tasting menu for lunch, we had ours with a soft pairing, which means we had a selection of wine and kombucha accompaniments throughout the course of our dining experience.
What to do in Valletta
Caravaggio at St John’s Cathedral
The Italian artist Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio, was born in 1571. He ranks amongst the most influential painters in the history of art. Caravaggio’s creative hallmark was the incorporation of psychological realism. Open to the public at St John’s Cathedral, these are landmark paintings that will leave you with goosebumps seeing in the flesh at such a large scale.
Villa Bologna Pottery
If you’re looking for some serene fun, I couldn’t recommend a pottery painting class at Villa Bologna more — followed by some incredible pasta at their on-site restaurant. It’s a mindful daytime activity that has such a calming effect as you listen to some music with the sunlight dappling your designs.
With an abundance of bars, record stores, markets and clothes shops to keep you occupied, Valletta has such a unique energy to it — and I would highly recommend a spin on the water if time and weather allow!
Sarah Gill was a guest of The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, Mdina and Iniala Harbour House, Valletta.
Rooms at Xara Palace start from €236 per night per room on a B&B basis.
Room rates at Iniala Harbour House Malta start from €400 per night for a double room on a B&B basis.
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