10th Aug 2022
After a long spell of make-up austerity, quit your tinted moisturiser and bolt for dramatic details and high-voltage brights. Bold beauty is back for SS22.
Hyperreal, healthy skin continues to shine, as per Chanel’s sunlit natural glow, Marni and Blumarine’s Y2K glossy gleam, and Prada’s barefaced freshness. Trust in cream products for a “no make-up” make-up look – blend glowy, cream highlighters, bronzers and blushers with fingertips to the high points of the face to melt into the skin for a soft-focus gild.
If you tilt more toward a fresh matte, Tom Ford and Hourglass have both launched shine-controlling, pore-minimising and texture-softening primers to help you achieve the airbrush effect that’s been dubbed “satin skin”, as seen at Rodarte, Coach and Altuzarra. According to make-up artist Mary Phillips, whose clients include Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Hailey Bieber, Dua Lipa and Kendall Jenner, satin skin “gives a super-smooth, soft finish that still looks matte in areas but is not overly done,” and recommends Hourglass to “contain the shine and place the glow only where you want it”.
From Robert Pattinson’s emo smudged liner in The Batman to the swooping jet-black wings Julia Fox wore at Paris Fashion Week applied by Kanye, liner is taking a dramatic and graphic edge as we make up for lost time spent without make-up with smouldering eyes all spring. Aim for heavily rimmed in black like the grunge Black Swan eyes at Rick Owens, exaggerated lashes at Givenchy, the double lines seen at Chanel and Dior or try the dagger flicks aiming outward instead of upward as seen at Koché. Anything but a cat eye.
Break out your brightest shades, as the explosive make-up movement stirred by drama series Euphoria continues to inspire those previously married to the original Urban Decay Naked Palette tonal range to delve into the world of colour chaos eye make-up experimentation. The SS22 shows were alight with optimistic hits of high-voltage colour, in every shape and size, be it tiny details like the punky shocks of fluorescent orange on the inner and outer eye at Chloé to the swooping electric green and blue wings at Versace and flares of negative space neons at Prabal Gurung.
STAINED GLASS GLOSS LIPS
Thank the ’90s nostalgia – high-shine gloss is back and even Victoria Beckham has one, but this is not the sticky, gloopy gloss of your past, as evidenced at VB, Blumarine and Dolce & Gabbana. “Wearing see-through colour under a layer of glassy shine is a great way of pulling off a high-gloss trend without it feeling too over-the- top disco,” says Terry Barber, MAC’s director of make-up artistry. “Think pushed-in colour stains with a balmed, juicy finish. Glossy features don’t have to look drippy, it’s more about them looking plumped and highly moisturised.”
This season, every feature had an embellishment. There was silver- stained skin at Lanvin, Y2K body glitter at Blumarine, shimmering tinged ear art at Collina Strada, angelic face tattoos at Simone Rocha, sunset painted foreheads at Rodarte, rainbow eyes at Paul & Joe, and even a gold pigmented nose at Kenneth Ize. The most wearable statement is likely on the lips – at Ulla Johnson, ombré lips appeared to be blossoming with a hit of electric colour on a nude base, glittering pastels were seen at Anna Sui, Tom Ford and KNWLS, and if you’re really feeling brave, look to Acne Studios’ glinting sequins.
LE FRENCH BOB
Blunt, soft and choppy crops continue their reign in 2022, from Loewe’s statement pastel bowl cuts and Giambattista Valli’s slick bobs laden with little white bows to Chanel’s shiny, poker-straight and centre-parted blunt bob. “This look is right on-trend and versatile enough to suit everyone,” says Ciaran Purcell at Peter Mark. “Try a fringe with a curved edge and added texture or a shorter, blunt fringe will give a funky, modern look. Longer, layered bangs add a softer, seductive touch, while a fringe that sweeps in a centre part also puts a trendy spin on this classic style.”
Erdem, Altuzarra, Rejina Pyo, Christian Siriano, Moschino and more showed plaits in every iteration, in detailed twists, sporty pigtails, interwoven with beads, ribbon-entwined, butt-skimming and face-framing. Unskilled in the art of polished plaits? Experiment with hair accessories, like the flowers twisted into ’60s blow-dries at Rixo, the signature embellished hair slides at Simone Rocha, crystal clips at Yuhan Wang or patterned silky headscarves seen at Versace, Anna Sui, Coperni, Blumarine and Bora Aksu.
Catwalk and Backstage Photography by Stefan Knauer. This article originally appeared in the Spring issue of IMAGE Magazine. We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.