Catwalks shouldn’t alienate, they should embrace. Marie Kelly finds the new-season collections to be a wonderful sartorial melting pot of different style personalities.
For futurists: Prada
Each season, Miuccia Prada takes women out of their comfort zone without lessening by one iota her customers’ desire to buy and wear Prada clothes. She uses every tool at her disposal – embellishment, texture, print, finishes, cut, colour – and creates a story that is mesmerising. She makes women rethink the very bones of an outfit, the gender stereotyping around clothes and the kinds of identity we can construct for ourselves with them. This collection is for women who take fashion seriously but know how to have fun with it too.
For experimentalists: Dries Van Noten
The Belgian-born designer makes wearing print, brocade and shimmer – all at the same time, no less – look remarkably easy. Each season, he presents a masterclass in how to make challenging combinations appear effortless and nonchalant. Texture is as prominant in every collection as pattern, so for women who want a real point of difference to their look, Dries Van Noten is the label to love. This season, there’s real depth and warmth to the collection’s colourways, which is an absolute boon for women with pale skin.