Reggie White of Reggie’s in Rathmines shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Reggie White became fascinated by the craft of pizza during his training at Ballymaloe Cookery School. He continued to develop his skills through stints in high-end pizza kitchens in San Francisco, taking that learning home. Reggie has set up, worked in or consulted for many firm favourites on the Irish pizza scene including Little Forest, Bambino, Otto, Osteria Lucio and a half dozen others.
Reggie’s, the cult Rathmines pizzeria will be bringing its signature pies to Glendalough Estate this weekend for Beyond The Pale festival. Expect a feast-style Italian-American spread: ricotta meatballs, cacio e pepe arancini, four 10” pizzas to share, and a sticky toffee pudding finale.
Here, he shares his life in food.
What are your earliest memories of food?
Sunday roasts with my (large) family. Mum, dad and six kids around the table. Generally, chicken. Everything cooked in a 1950s Aga.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
Mixed. Swings from obsession to fatigue in the space of a few minutes. Ultimately, I’m very happy it’s the industry I work in.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
The first thing I ever remember cooking successfully was a Brenda Costigan Chilli Con Carne recipe my sister Florence shared with me. It has raisins and cocoa powder in it and is delicious but I have a Texan friend who is horrified by those inclusions. Moreso the raisins.
How did working with food become your career?
I was a bit lost in my mid 20s and didn’t have many passions so I said, ‘If I’m going to be broke, I might as well do something I love’.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
I really don’t enjoy eating when I’ve just woken up. Even worse if it’s something like a fry. I like a fry, just not at 7am. I’m happy with an americano with milk and a bit later, some Scéal bakery toast with butter and Harry’s Nut Butter.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
I have a full brick wood fired oven in the garden so it tends to be pizzas. I once did the entire Christmas dinner in there and it was spectacular. A sirloin of Peter Hannan beef, cauliflower cheese, and roast potatoes are the highlights.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
He’s not my ‘North Star’ but I remember watching a Jamie Oliver show called Jamie’s Great Italian Escape in maybe 2008 where he drove around Italy in a VW Campervan cooking amazing produce in people’s homes and that was truly inspirational for me. It was a very definite trigger for me to take up my new career.
What would your last meal on earth be?
A mountain of roast potatoes and Mum’s gravy.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
A mountain of roast potatoes and Mum’s gravy!
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Toast with butter and Marmite… The New Zealand gear. I got hooked when we were stuck there during Covid.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
It’s not the food itself but whenever you get ‘strings’ in an avocado or beetroot, it makes my eyes water. Also, cucumber doesn’t agree with me.
Hangover cure?
Jelly Tots and a pack of Monster Munch… Maybe a sub-zero Lucozade.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury. Delicious salty carbs all the way.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Pub grub.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
Mister S on Camden St.
Best coffee in Ireland?
3FE. I like to hit Sussex Terrace or Ranelagh on my way to work. Honourable mention to Foodgame on South Lotts Road.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
It’s class right now. So many places doing awesome contemporary cooking. I also love how when ‘big international chains’ land to great trumpets and Irish people just don’t embrace them. I love how Irish people respond to real businesses with owner operators and ‘imported’ viral chains don’t take off.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
I just like making things. Whether it’s a lasagna, a pizza oven or a garden shed. I just enjoy making stuff.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?
In the age of AI and more and more things becoming automated and ‘going online’; human interaction is irreplaceable. Good food and even better wine is what I’m here for.
Food for thought — What are some areas for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
I think social media, ‘virality’ and online reviews are distracting some business owners from their work. Make the experience better and focus on the guests in front of you instead of trying to control what they post in a Google Review.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
I was in a friend’s house the other day and they cooked lamb, real lamb, in the bottom of their Aga and it was fabulous. They put it in at 6am for lunch at 1:30. So tender.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
My pals in Scéal bakery. I love everything they do and they’re super folks to top it off.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
Going into every experience as a guest or a host, with authenticity. Everyone wants the same outcome, a great dining experience. It’s not us vs. them. Let’s make it easy on each other.
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