Photography by Lorna Caufield
Owner of Harry’s of Malahide Grace O’Riordan on her life in food
Grace O'Riordan shares her life in food, from her earliest memories to her favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Grace O’Riordan is the patron chef of Harry’s of Malahide, the popular tapas and pasta eatery in the picturesque Dublin village. Harry’s reflects Grace’s passion for Provence, offering a blend of dishes from Italy, France, and Spain, all crafted with the finest ingredients sourced from Irish producers.
What are your earliest memories of food?
My first memory of food would be a fresh Vienna roll with hot blackberry jam I’d foraged for my mum.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
I have respect for food, its origins, and how it’s grown — and I never waste anything. Food for me is a mixture of necessity and pleasure. There is nothing better than to gather with friends around good food prepared with love.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
The first meal I learned to cook was Welsh rarebit.
How did food become a part of your career?
Food became a part of my career years ago when I flew and managed a private jet for a client. I would prepare food to serve during the flight. I loved nothing better than to shop at local markets at various destinations. Once I brought fresh lobster from Maharees via private jet to a client’s yacht in Corsica. The client was actually Irish and was beyond thrilled.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
It’s usually a coffee and ginger shot in the mornings.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
We are serving up lobster or white crab, côte de boeuf and roasties, followed by pavlova with Chantilly cream and seasonal fruits.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
I really like Tom Aikens as a culinary inspiration.
What would your last meal on earth be?
An experience at Chapter One, cook me anything you want.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
It would have to be a special Irish toastie.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Butterbean and spinach. I tend to listen to my body’s cravings and know when I need iron.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
I can’t stand offal, and I wouldn’t touch sweetbread, sorry!
Hangover cure?
Irish breakfast and lashings of buttery toasted sourdough.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Fine dining.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
Chapter One.
Best coffee in Ireland?
Butlers. Can’t beat a Cafe Almond.
Go-to beverage accompaniment?
Cheese with wine.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
I love nothing better than seeing brilliant restaurants and chefs bring our wonderful Irish produce to its full glory. A memory that sticks in my head was a meal on Inishmeain and the course was simply a carrot, cooked three ways. The dish was absolutely stunning. My only concern is that nowadays the influence of social media is having an impact on style over substance.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
My favourite thing about cooking is heightening my senses. The aroma, the flavour, and visually how it looks as you plate it. Of course, the pleasure it gives is always the icing on the cake.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment — mean to you?
There is nothing better than to gather with friends around good food prepared with love. I love how the French, Italian and Spanish families prepare all day, gathering different dishes for the meal and sitting for hours enjoying talking to each other and spending time together.
Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
Yes, we need a lot more food markets where local food producers and foragers and fishermen can sell their produce first hand. Farm-to-fork should be accessible to everyone. Obviously, the hospitality industry is suffering greatly at the moment with increasing costs and staff shortages. It’s incredibly sad to see a much loved local eaterie close its doors, not only for the community, but for our tourist industry as a whole.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
I recently had lobster fresh from the sea to our plates with a lashing of garlic butter on a sunny evening in Inishbofin. It really doesn’t get any better than that!
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
I recently came back from a trip to Nice and visited one of my all-time favourite restaurants, La Merenda by Dominique Le Stanc. La Merenda—”the snack”—is located in Old Nice just around the corner from the flower market. I’ve been visiting for over 20 years now. You will see Dominique cook a menu of local dishes, expertly prepared in a tiny kitchen as a room of eager recipients sits alongside each other on two long trestle tables. Very intimate, very special.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
Charm – a charming waiter, charming ambience and simple food cooked well!
Photography by Lorna Caufield.