Hot Soho: BobBob Ricard

The d?cor at BobBob Ricard has been described as that of a diner designed by Liberace with echoes of the Titanic. That's a bit cruel- sure, it's oligarch-y but it has a certain OTT charm nonetheless.? The lighting is super dim (read flattering) and the dark panelling and booth set ups divvy up a vast room into intimate spaces rather nicely. Order a signature BBR rhubarb g&t, an espresso martini or buzz for champagne while you take in the layered wallpapers and deco fittings. That'll keep you going while you decode the menu. Since we're mixing it all up, let's just say it's Dr Zhivago meets American steakhouse. Confused? So were we until we tucked into the lobster mac and cheese, sublime creamed corn and Beef Wellington for two. Then all became clear- it's about ultra-rich flavours in smallish measure with plenty of truffles (be sure to order a side of mash). If the plates were any bigger, gout would become a serious risk.

Oh and be sure to finish off with a sip of Chateau Yquem from a communal glass (?27) if you've never tasted it- BBR's the only place anywhere that's allowed to sell it by the glass.

1 James St, London, W1F 9DF http://bobbobricard.com

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