Prince William reportedly ‘threw Harry out’ of charity foundation over Meghan Markle bullying claims
Prince William reportedly ‘threw Harry out’ of charity foundation over Meghan Markle bullying claims

Sarah Finnan

Utility room ideas: How to make it a calm space you won’t want to shut the door on
Utility room ideas: How to make it a calm space you won’t want to shut...

Lauren Heskin

‘I was advised not to have kids as there’s a high chance I could lose my leg’
‘I was advised not to have kids as there’s a high chance I could lose...

Jennifer McShane

A fitted kitchen isn’t your only option: Here’s why freestanding units are a good idea
A fitted kitchen isn’t your only option: Here’s why freestanding units are a good idea

Marlene Wessels

Summery interiors buys under €30 for every room in the house
Summery interiors buys under €30 for every room in the house

Megan Burns

Day tripper: places to visit that are under a few hours from Cork City
Day tripper: places to visit that are under a few hours from Cork City

Sarah Finnan

‘I noticed the tiniest freckle on my ankle’: A young woman opens up about her skin cancer diagnosis
‘I noticed the tiniest freckle on my ankle’: A young woman opens up about her...

IMAGE

‘Suddenly alive again’: The heartbreaking joy of finding a deceased loved one on Google Maps street view
‘Suddenly alive again’: The heartbreaking joy of finding a deceased loved one on Google Maps...

Amanda Cassidy

7 different school tour ideas to help you see out the year on a high
7 different school tour ideas to help you see out the year on a high

Sarah Finnan

‘We tried everything to get her heart beating’: Doctor who tried to save Princess Diana
‘We tried everything to get her heart beating’: Doctor who tried to save Princess Diana

Jennifer McShane

Image / Editorial

L’Gueuleton: A Review


by Ellie Balfe
01st Nov 2014
blank

fade street restaurant

blank
blank
blank
blank
blankSee More Photos
blank
blank
blank
blank
blank
blank
blank
blank
Some restaurants in our city stay comfortably the same year on year and that’s the way we like them. I had always put Fade Street’s cool and cosy bistro, L?Gueuleton, in that bracket ?that of an old reliable, one in which you’ll never fail to have a glorious meal in great surroundings and even greater ambience. So, on my recent visit I saw that the experience is still as stellar, but there have been some subtle changes, which have, in fact, only served to optimize the offering.

First change is the arrival of new chef, Aoife Barker, who is successfully cooking with Irish and French ingredients but with a slight twist. When I asked her what plans she had afoot, she said, ?I’m trying to make the bistro classics a bit lighter and more refined – putting a woman’s touch to rustic bistro cooking!?.

Chef Barker uses all local suppliers and mainly Irish produce – always seasonal. She works directly with the suppliers themselves; she gets all her beef from a farm in Roscommon and they cut specific cuts for her. She prefers lesser-used cuts – oxtail, rump cap, beef cheek and skirt steak being among her favourites, as despite being trickier to cook, they are top class cuts full of flavour.

The second change is the terrace makeover, with its pretty awning and comfy seats, thus making this one of the nicest people-spotting spaces in town complete with heaters that actually heat!

So, to the food.? I brought my Dad, and together he and I feasted on a mix of hearty, rustic dishes that satisfied on a deep, almost visceral level.? The French Onion soup is notoriously (and correctly) the best in Dublin. The chicken liver and foie gras parfait with spiced pear and toasted sour dough strikes the perfect balance of rich flavor and spice and is blended to perfection – pure velvet, melt in the mouth stuff. Not to be missed.

We decided to be led on our wine choices, and the marvellous and charming Shane helped us navigate the wine list. With our starters we drank two glasses of ‘Domain De Thulon’ Beaujolais Blanc 2013, which complemented the richness of the flavours ideally (on a return visit, I had the ‘Villa Huesgen’ Riesling 2013 with the French onion soup and it was a sublime accompaniment!).

Mains consisted of Plaice Fillet with Dublin Bay Prawn Mousse, new potatoes, sprouting broccoli and shellfish sauce for me, which was light and flavourful. My Dad went for the Braised dry aged beef cheek with oxtail croquette, truffle mash and pak choy. This is a great, true-to-from bistro style dish: tender, melty, meaty heaven. A death row meal if there ever was!

Shane expertly paired our mains with the white Alvarinho ‘Pouco Comum’ 2013 for me and the robust red Ribera del Duero ‘Acon” 2012 for my Dad.

The meal finished with a damn near perfect Cr’me Brulee and a glass each of Pineau des charentes ‘Chateau D’Orignac’. A dessert wine that is brandy based, therefore not overly sweet and served to bust all the myths regarding dessert wine that I previously believed. Sweet, sickly, syrupy? Nope this ain’t that! I am converted.

As Shane jokingly said to me as we left (and to stretch that famous tagline to almost unbearable lengths) ?Food by L?Gueuleton. Memories. Priceless?. He’s not wrong.

My verdict is simple; if you’ve not been – go. If you have been – go again.

@elliebalfe

Also Read

blank
RELATIONSHIPS
The psychology of nostalgia and why we can’t get enough of it at the moment

There’s a reason we love being reminded of things that...

By Amanda Cassidy

blank
EDITORIAL
Chrissy Teigen’s past trolling tweets highlight the slut-shaming culture we tolerated

Chrissy Teigen is the queen of oversharing. Usually it’s in...

By Amanda Cassidy

blank
EDITORIAL
Nutritionist Daniel Davey’s harissa squash with giant couscous

This is a perfect lunch recipe, and the harissa does...

By Meg Walker

blank
EDITORIAL
‘In a public health emergency, why does so much of the post-pandemic talk revolve around drinking?’

No other European country is having the same public order...

By Amanda Cassidy

Women with MS who take medication, especially immunosuppressants, cannot become pregnant unless they come off medication.
premium HEALTH & WELLNESS, REAL-LIFE STORIES
I had to weigh up the possibility of losing my mind against losing my future children

Holograms of the children she may never have dance across Dearbhla Crosses' mind as an MS diagnosis and Covid-19 are unwelcome reminders of her biological clock ticking.

By Dearbhla Crosse

blank
EDITORIAL
Emerging after the pandemic: ‘There’s an awkwardness to my interactions, like I’ve forgotten how to socialise’

In just a few months, human contact became one of...

By Amanda Cassidy

Vegan
EDITORIAL
Delicious vegan-friendly spots to try for a weekend brunch in Dublin

Check out three of our favourite vegan/veggie-friendly spots in Dublin...

By Jennifer McShane