Meet the invisible beauty treatments that actually work

Demi Moore, Christina Aguilera, Lindsay Lohan, Brad Pitt, Lady Gaga…They’ve all, apparently, been at it. Over the past year, these and a host of other celebrities have subtly refreshed their looks without the usual tell-tale signs of intervention. No pillow faces, no crepe-y stretched skin around the eyes, no visible scars and no frozen “death mask” expressions.

Instead, it’s that “easy-breezy, I’ve had a really great sleep, green juice and two litres of water” look that we just know isn’t what’s really going on. Social media has been obsessed with the “undetectable” glow-ups each has gone through, and fair enough. It’s as though they’ve put a real-life Instagram filter on their now poreless, line-free, glowing complexions. So, what are the Hollywood elite doing, and how can we get in on the act?Okay, well it’s fair to say that (spoiler alert), a lot of this can’t have been done without some really good surgery… which in itself has come a long way from the Nancy Regan wind tunnel effects of old. Equally, it doesn’t just happen by reiki and a pass or two with a jade roller.

There was talk of a skin god in Dubai who simply asks for a 24-hour period during which he’ll dissolve everything (including, possibly, your bank account) and return you with a whole new, beautifully refreshed face, but that’s pretty unlikely too. But give the process the appropriate amount of time, money and aftercare, a lot can be achieved through the new-generation treatments, lasers and procedures that are becoming more available.

When it comes to an “undetectable” glow-up, and putting cosmetic surgery aside, the big question, in my mind, is how far are you prepared to go
in terms of budget, pain and downtime? There’s no arguing that treatments like radiofrequency microneedling and fraxelated C02 laser (and especially, a combination of the two) will work actual wonders; but it takes a bit of bravery and a week where that over-used cliché of Samantha from Sex and the City doesn’t even half describe the downtime effects on a red-raw (and later flaking) face and neck.

Marketed through devices such as Morpheus8 or Secret Pro, these are the daddies of turning back time as they literally erase damage and turbo-boost the production of new collagen and elastin in the skin. The procedure, administered by nurses or advanced aestheticians, involves microneedling the skin, but with a laser to push radio-frequency waves through the needles and into the skin’s layers to causing tissue coagulation (tightening), and collagen production (which starts to decline at around 25 years of age, and then deteriorates rapidly from peri-menopause). This treatment is performed on skin numbed with a topical anaesthetic cream, but I say ask for sedation (in the form of medication such as Valium) too – it’ll make everyone’s life easier. After treatment, the client is given a take-home skincare regimen and must stay away from all direct sunlight and refrain from wearing make-up until the skin heals (approximately 5-7 days). It may sound extreme, but this treatment needs only to be done once, and the cumulative benefits will last for up to three years.

Whether opting for this sort of treatment, or any other to restore suppleness and bounce to the face, the secret is in making and “banking” as much collagen as possible. Polynucleotide injections have been rising in popularity in the past year, and deservedly so (also known as “the salmon facial”… although there’s nothing about massage, masks and a quiet snooze on a treatment bed here). A speedy, affordable and results-driven treatment that minimises post-procedural downtime, this involves dozens of teeny injections around the eyes, neck and/or lower face, or anywhere that would benefit from some skin-scaffolding.

The active ingredient is fragments of DNA that stimulate human skin cells to regenerate and produce collagen, often combined with hyaluronic acid for added instant hydration and suppleness. Straight after the treatment, the skin may look blotchy and bumpy from these injections, but this should smooth out in a matter of hours. The results are a slow burn, developing over about three months, but with a noticeable boost to what you see in the mirror.

One of the questions I’m most commonly asked is around “face sag”… when contours start to head south, jawlines soften, and expressions start to look “down” rather than perky and up. Most women cling to the skin under their chin, presenting it as Exhibit A of the problem. The solution is one they don’t always want to hear, but a new contouring, sculpting and firming treatment called Ignite RF (created by the Morpheus8 science stable) is a combination of a new fat-melting laser, with radiofrequency skin-tightening. It’s labelled “minimally invasive” (i.e. it cuts into the skin), and is performed under local anaesthetic to minimise pain, both of which sound daunting, but it can deliver results in one session that could previously only be achieved by surgery. It’s not for everyone, but if you’re considering chin lipo or have stubborn fat pockets on other parts of the body that just won’t budge, it’s a very viable option.

Another stealth solution to instantly freshen the face, and one that is apparently up 25 per cent year-on-year in Ireland, is blepharoplasty, or an eye lift – the MVP in the undetectable glow-up. These procedures are becoming more straightforward and more commonplace to the extent that an upper eye lift takes just 40 minutes under local anaesthetic – although recovery and down-time is approximately 7 days.

It’s a procedure that can make significant difference to an aging face as it removes the sagging skin of hooded eyelids, and tackles bags and folds under the lower eyes (the latter, a more complicated, more pricy job, with more downtime). Blepharoplasty will last for a good ten years – possibly longer – and with a price tag from €3,000- €5,000 can deliver good bang for your buck. But the question must be asked… do any of us mere mortals really want or need work to this extent?

Demi Moore relies on her face and body for everything, and possibly makes its upkeep her primary daily focus (and revenue stream – both in and out). For us mere mortals, a regime incorporating Botox, regular hydrating and collagen-banking treatments (see sidebar), masks, great homecare, and perhaps some good cosmetic dentistry – a whole other story – can do a lot for a face that yes, may be aging, but is holding its own and still looks like the person who was born with it.

It’s a personal choice, and of course, sometimes we want to tackle a particular issue, but often the solution isn’t necessarily an external one. Make haste slowly might be the caution. Festina Lente, people.

Skincare heroes to maximise results

ReLife Definisse KP1 Redensifying Cream, €135 A super-trouper combination of peptides, vitamins and hyaluronic acid to boost collagen production, stimulate cellular energy, hydrate the skin and enhance its elasticity, density and brightness.

La Mer Night Recovery Concentrate, €690, a serum-in-mask formulation to help skin recover from stressors such as tough weather, allergies, sensitivities and procedures such as micro-needling.

The Skin Diary Night Repair Therapy, €150, is created by dermatologists and is a game-changer in the regenerative skincare space. Rewinds sun damage and delivers gold-standard anti-ageing benefits without irritation or the use of retinoids. SkinCeuticals P-Tiox, €150, inspired by our favourite wrinkle-relaxing injections, this water-light serum employs peptide technology to soften lines while improving skin texture and radiance, with scientifically-proven results.

Finally, Skin Krush LED Mask, €350 is designed by Irish nurses with light strength to actively improve the skin. Two variants – one to Clear and Calm, one to Rejuvenate. Both include UV light to tone and firm the skin as well as stimulate collagen production.