Fashion’s plus-size problem – why can we still not find size-inclusive clothes?

Above, plus-sized models graced the catwalks of spring/summer 2023 shows, including at Sinéad O’Dwyer, 16Arlington, Chanel and Carolina Herrera. Right, Mango is a high-street brand known for its wide size range, such as this striped sweatshirt, €29.99.

Online, we’re now seeing a collective of curve influencers fostering diversity and galvanising change. Scroll through TikTok or Instagram, and you’ll discover curve influencers eschewing the set style rules and dispensing fashion advice to millions of followers. With all these strides in the industry, with curves embraced and an emerging set of women promoting size inclusion, why is finding clothing complicated?

Conducting a poll on my Instagram (@corinagaffey), hundreds of replies flooded in from women of all shapes and sizes, from petite to plus, who were exasperated by their experiences. Eighty-one per cent felt frustrated by insufficient inclusive sizes and styles on the high street. Women lamented the lack of size diversity, demoralising size guides and lack of size standardisation across brands. O’Reilly believes we’re still reeling from the effects of Covid-19 on the supply chain. “When lockdowns took place, several global suppliers either had to shut their doors or no longer produce certain products. The bigger sizes were hit the hardest, with many plus-size retailers closing altogether.”

Elsewhere, brands dole out perfunctory plus collections that are ill-fitting and uninspired. Writer Kirstie McDermott elaborates: “Plus-size clothes can be so infantilising – sack-y shapes, awful patterns, decals and always cold shoulders. It’s insulting too: ‘You’re fat – this old jersey shit will do you.’” In an Instagram comment, one follower said, “Anything over a size 18 is rarely stocked, and if deemed a trend or high-fashion look, it usually doesn’t go over a size 14/16. I have disposable income that no one seems to want.”

In-person shopping on the high street as a plus- size person is rare because brands aren’t stocking extended sizes in store. Seventy-seven per cent of respondents to my Instagram survey are forced to shop online. “There’s a false perception that there is no market for bigger sizes which can be fed by weight-related stigma and discrimination – or the idea that you’re fat because you’re lazy, so you don’t have money to spend as a result,” says McDermott.

Another follower noted, “I’m a size 18 on my top half, but my bottom half is 22; there’s never any stock of these sizes in store.” Being restricted to not being able to try before you buy is a frustrating process. Tricky-to-navigate size guides, coupled with inconsistency and uncertainty regarding fit, compel women to purchase multiple sizes, a costly practice for their purses and the environment.

Left, Universal Standard offers stylish pieces in a wide size range.

Although it is difficult to get a precise definition, plus-size is defined as size 16 and above, and stats show the average woman is size 16, so why would brands want to cut off such a large percentage of potential customers? “I’ll often spot something I like, but it won’t be available above a 14,” says McDermott. “Often, a 14 is the XL in a range, which is crazy to me – you’ve just wiped out a slew of customers by not offering even a couple more sizes.”

The plus pound is profitable. In a report by Future Market Insights, the plus-size clothing market in the United States reached $601.7 billion in 2022. It is projected to reach $1,044.3 billion by 2032.

In a recent interview with Elle magazine, American designer Christian Siriano admitted he grew his business by extending his size range. “Adding plus-sizes to my line tripled my business. Do we not want to triple the business? Do we not think these women should wear our clothes? Do we not want these women to have beautiful things because we’re afraid they’re not beautiful?” Unlike Siriano, despite runway representation, most catwalk designers don’t make clothes to fit the average woman. InStyle magazine confirmed this in a report that examined every brand that showed for the spring 2023 season across London, Milan, Paris and New York. Concluding that out of the total of 327 designers, only 30 brands offer sizes US 20 (UK 24) or above, and 22 of those brands are in New York. “When we see high-fashion designers embrace diversity, it has a positive domino effect throughout the fashion world. This also filters through to other avenues of advertising not related to fashion. That’s the beauty of positive inclusion,” says O’Reilly.

A fresh generation of fashion designers is changing attitudes toward size and body image. One such designer is Dublin-based Lia Cowan, who has dressed Nicola Coughlan and Angela Scanlon. Cowan provides custom sizing and will take on any size request. “It’s about giving all people of all body types the right to dress the same as others without feeling marginalised.”

On why other designers don’t cater for extended sizes, Cowan says, “There is a common misconception that adding plus sizes to their range will be too expensive and end up with the brand losing money if it doesn’t sell. If we design with all body types in mind, everyone can be happy.”

Body positivity messaging risks coming off as performative if brands don’t offer plus sizes. Inclusivity as a necessity rather than a fad is the mindset of brands like Good American, Universal Standard, Loud Bodies and Wray. But what about the brands that need to be more representative? What can we do? Cowan says, “Talk about it, post about it, never shut up! If we can start the conversation, more and more people will jump on board and eventually, the right people will see it.”

Until then, vote with your wallet and use your voice. “Brands see messages all the time on their social media. It’s imperative to be specific too – not just ‘please bring in more sizes’, but ‘I want to see more coats and dresses in size 24 or 26 in your store,’” advises O’Reilly. Focus on brands that inspire change and direct your purchases to those brands that strive for size inclusivity and want to make all women feel great about themselves.

OLIVIA RUBIN
The queen of colour and fun, Olivia Rubin is best known for her rainbow designs and stocks of dresses, skirts and knits in sizes up to 24.

GANNI
The cool-girl, Scandi brand offers extended sizes to 24 across a portion of their collections.

WRAY Wray merges sustainability and style with sizes from 4 to 26 and pieces including lounge sets to denim. Based in New York, it does ship to Ireland, but you will have to pay customs.

REFORMATION
If you need occasionwear, look no further than US cult brand Reformation. Styles are available up to a size 28.

RIXO
Another viable option for occasionwear, Rixo stocks sizes 6 to 24.

MANGO
Unlike Zara, this high-street store caters to plus-size shoppers. Sizes range from XXS to 4XL.

NEVER FULLY DRESSED
Playful prints and bold designs make this a go-to if you want to make a style statement. Sizes range from 6-24.

LOUD BODIES
According to the brand, it is inclusive, ethical and sustainable. Sizes range from XXS to 10XL.

MARA HOFFMAN
With her stylish and sustainable dresses, separates and swimsuits, star-favourite Mara Hoffman offers extended sizes up to 3XL.

ANTHROPOLOGIE
From party-ready pieces to sleek separates, Anthropologie’s plus collections cover it all, with sizes reaching 30 on some pieces.

Catwalk images by Stefan Knauer. This article originally appeared in the Spring 2023 issue of IMAGE Magazine.

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