Sous Chef at Dubh Cafe & Restaurant Laura Farrell on her affinity with all things foodie

Nestled on the corner of one of Newbridge’s oldest streets, facing out onto the old market square, Dubh Cafe & Restaurant is one of Kildare’s most exciting eateries. From a small little cafe to creating a trilogy of services that include casual lunch, seasonal dinner, and a stunning organic wine offering, Dubh (previously Ubh), is a space dedicated to the sheer, unadulterated enjoyment of good food, great drinks, music and entertainment.

From humble beginnings on work experience after finishing up her culinary degree, Laura Farrell has spent the past four years rising through the ranks at Dubh to become sous chef. A woman who’s spent her life trying new food and experimenting with new recipes, we caught up with Laura to get her two cents on all things foodie related…

What are your earliest memories of food?

Sitting in a highchair at the kitchen table eating a bowl of mashed potatoes with the Angelus on in the background.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

It’s chaotic but passionate.

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

Carbonara. I looked up a recipe online and used to cook it for my friends after school.

How did food become your career?

My sister has always had a huge interest in food and cooking, so she inspired me to get into food. We’ve always loved trying new recipes or coming up with recipes ourselves at home, that’s where my real love and appreciation of food and a good meal began. When I finished school, I took the culinary route and went to college for a couple of years to learn as much as I could about food and being a chef. I wanted to get some experience in a restaurant setting too, so I wrote to Ubh Cafe at the time (now Dubh) and asked if I could do some work experience and have been there ever since – over 4 years later.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

A shakshuka if I have enough time, but three boiled eggs if I’m in a rush.

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

Either chicken tacos with all the toppings and salsas, or Asian tapas; a selection of ramen, tteokbokki, dumplings, steam buns and scallion pancakes.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

I love Grant Achatz, he’s an American chef with a three-Michelin star restaurant in Chicago. He was diagnosed with tongue cancer and can’t taste much anymore, but no matter what he does he keeps going.

What would your last meal on earth be?

A roast beef dinner with my mam’s gravy. I’d bathe in that stuff.

What’s your go-to comfort food?

Homemade ramen with enoki mushrooms and loads of spice.

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

Pork or chicken dumplings.

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

Dill. It gives me the creeps.

Hangover cure?

A chicken roll with a pint of milk.

Sweet or savoury?

Savoury.

Fine dining or pub grub?

Fine dining.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

If I was going fine dining, all out, it would have to be Chapter One. If it was casual dining it would probably be Little Dumping because it’s so authentic.

Best coffee in Ireland?

I’m biased, but Bad Habits Coffee – it’s owned by Emma Spain who owns Dubh.

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

A glass of Riesling. It’s a wine that tastes like pineapple and hugs.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

The hustle and bustle. The 40 minutes before service starts when everyone’s running around like a headless chicken trying to get themselves together is such a great feeling.

What does food mean to you?

Spending time together – quality time is the best kind of thing.

Food for thought — is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

There’s always room for improvement but at the moment, I think it’s thriving. Irish people are so talented when it comes to food. We have such incredible produce in Ireland. At Dubh we have a farmer in Stradbally called John who supplies us with incredible locally produced organic fruit and vegetables.

Chef’s kiss — tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

The tasting menu in Chapter One. The chef, Mickael Viljanen, has the most delicious foie gras on the menu. It was incredible.

Compliments to the chef — now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

I would have to say Emma Spain who owns Dubh Cafe & Restaurant. She inspired me to start from the very beginning and never doubted me, she taught me everything I know. She’s in her 30s with two award-winning businesses, I look up to her every day. As a woman in quite a male dominant industry, she always encourages me to raise my voice and push boundaries.

Secret ingredient — what, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

When you’ve just cooked and served the perfect meal and everyone is sitting down, enjoying it and there’s silence in the room.

wearedubh.ie

This article was originally published in March 2023.