Imagery via Daniel Geesen Photography
David Fox of Parilla shares his life in food
David Fox shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Nestled in Ranelagh, Parrilla is known for its enticing blend of upscale Mexican cuisine and vibrant ambiance. Each dish tells a story of tradition and innovation, and the team’s commitment to excellence is unwavering in their determination to deliver an unforgettable dining experience that transcends expectations.
Popping up at Taste of Dublin in Merrion Square from Thursday 11 to Sunday 14, you’ll find Parilla dishing up the goods all weekend long. Here, David shares his life in food.
What are your earliest memories of food?
My earliest memories of food take place at my gran’s kitchen table. Collected by my grandad from school and brought back to their house where I was always treated with a bowl of soup. Often changing, a fantastic rotation, hard to be matched bowls of soup from the earliest of age four or five.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
My relationship with food is one of mixed emotions… I’m truly in love with food, world cuisine, trying different styles, techniques, recipes etc. I just have to go easy as I pack on the pounds easily enough. Jokes aside, I have a fantastic relationship with food. I will give absolutely everything a try and I’m happy to love/dislike certain foods and be open about that with people, even if it is controversial.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
I think the first meal I learned how to cook could possibly be spaghetti bolognese. In the early stages it most likely was chewy beef, couple kg of Dolmio and over cooked pasta. I’ll never forget my first chef showing me through a real authentic bolagnese, keeping my mouth shut about the Dolmio of course, and being absolutely blown away by the love put into a dish. Sparks definitely flew for Italian cuisine from there on out. Still don’t mind a good Dolmio all the same.
How did working with food become your career?
have always had a keen interest in food and got one of the most entry level jobs working in a homeless centre run by the capuchins on Bow street in town. In the kitchen here you change sections everyday, somedays on a fryer, working as a kitchen porter, serving etc. but this is where I got my first taste for food. Staff lunches on a Friday were often taken on by an individual and given a bit of a free run to make something as tasty as they can. This was always such an opportunity for me to try my absolute hardest to impress people through food. In later years as I reached 20 I started working with the lads behind Griolladh. Curating sambos and doing it at volume was such a buzz. From a garden in Malahide to locations all across Dublin I did love it all. I learnt a lot from Jack and Jacob, Jacob especially with food.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
Hate to be that guy but not huge on breakfast. Usually a flat white from the local cafe, yellow door, in Malahide and across to the restaurant. But if you twisted my arm I love pancakes.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
our current executive chef Renato Braga cooked up a serious lasagna for the family for my gran’s 90th recently. Probably the way forward I was actually shocked by how tasty it was. The family knew immediately I didn’t cook that one up. If I’m cooking myself, I love a roast, slow cooked meats, kiss off the BBQ, Sunday slow lunch sort of thing. Two or three courses and something sweet and easy to finish. Start with some form of burrata topped with something sweet and salty, followed by either a roast or maybe like a little tasty chicken in plum sauce or a ragu of sorts. My mind is racing at the thought of it. I do enjoy being given the chance to cook for friends and family.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
Tough one this. Don’t want to say the wrong thing. My mam has always pushed me in a direction that I’ve wanted to go, whether it was the best decision or not she’s backed me on them. She showed me how to cook, I still use her recipes from time to time. I adore her cooking and some of the most simple meals she makes are the ones that I crave when I need a boost. Maybe it’s cliche but it makes sense to me, she technically kicked it all off, she would laugh at me for this…
What would your last meal on earth be?
Yikes. I would kick it off with some form of croquette followed by a proper carbonara and/or a lovely steak and I’d finish it off with either a cheesecake or Panna cotta.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Spice bag, chicken cheese rolls and a curry sauce. Piggery but what’s rare is bliss (would be weekly/bi-weekly)
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Fried rice with packet rice. Nothing authentic about it but so easy to lash a bit of soy in, whatever veg is there—literally anything—topped with a fried egg and it’s ready in probably under five mins I’d say.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
Miso soup is just not it for me. Can’t/don’t plan on ever doing it.
Hangover cure?
Blue energise sport, something buttery from Una bakery and a sauna.
Sweet or savoury?
I’m heavy on the savoury side. Love a good cookie though,
Fine dining or pub grub?
Time and place for both. Pub grub is so accessible, especially for a couple of tenders and chips, simple. Fine dining lights a fire in the belly and the mind and I would take this quite seriously and plan a day around it. Fine dining excites me more but I find extreme comfort in pub grub. I will always leave a high end restaurant thinking I want to do something like this.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
King Sitric in howth. Have never had a bad meal, service is always impeccable. I think they won employee excellence at the restaurant awards and it shows. The seafood is incredibly fresh and the setting is just amazing. Sit outside on the terrace, blanket and a heater with a little glass of wine and a load of bits such as crab on brioche toast, prawns in butter, mussels in creamy white wine and garlicky sauce little bowl of chips, maybe a couple of specials and it’s just very hard to beat it.
Best coffee in Ireland?
250 square. Poured out of the local, yellow door Malahide and I recently saw their new spot up in Sandyford and thought it was such a savage fitout. Love an Una Coffee when in Parrilla. Basically two homes of mine so I should be allowed to have two locals.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
Growing and in a very positive way. There’s a really nice buzz of class restaurants opening at good price points. Everything is considered expensive these days but I think there is serious value to be had for what you’re getting in some restaurants. Ireland is small and words travel fast, it can be tough to see someone slate a restaurant and for that to have a negative impact on their business. Fortunately it hasn’t happened to us but have seen some online and feel it in the chest for them. Glovers alley relaunching, Lena portobello, Morso sandwich spot I can’t wait to try. All different levels/businesses are absolutely killing it. We have a very good array of food. Could go all day on this.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
Chilling out, taking time with it and relaxing. AirPods in and take it handy. That’s if of course we’re not stuck into a service, service is a buzz. Surrounded by good people and it’s an extremely addictive and exciting thing.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?
Ahh exactly like above, it’s just good for the soul. I can think of so many happy times where I have been surrounded by family or friends and just sharing food, having a laugh, feeling relaxed and just enjoying life. Restaurants and food really bring people together, it’s why I love it all. Regardless of whether someone is a foodie or not, they still go to restaurants to meet friends and to spend time with loved ones. To be able to curate that space and provide the ability for people to make memories together is huge for me. Whether that be in my home or in the restaurants I just adore the idea of it.
Food for thought — What are some areas for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
I try not to get too bogged down in anything negative, I like to focus on what is good and drive on with that. Hospitality isn’t an easy industry financially but I don’t think I need to touch on margins and vat, it’s not my realm of expertise. Maybe my answer to this question is how people look at hospitality from the outside in. Every host/hostess at the door has a life outside of the restaurant. You’ll never know whether they’ve had a great day or a terrible day and I just find it baffling when a guest feels entitled to give them a hard time or be rude to them, regardless of any situations. That goes for waiters/waitresses, chefs etc.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
I would probably say Lena. I have been to some more hyped restaurants of late but the class of Lena and sheer confidence behind the cooking/service brings me back every time. I love uno mas which led me to try Lena when they opened and it is a firm favourite for me. They have a savage simple lardo toast, pici cacio e Pepe and this sort of dark chocolate salted caramel tart like thing. Class. The first time I went we sat at the bar at the pass. Over stimulating for me but I just loved the buzz of it. Can’t wait to return.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
Scott Leigh used to work with us in Parrilla, he’s over in bang now but I’ve been loving his video series on instagram. Different types of dishes and they’re just always looking tasty. Enjoy the voice overs too. Keeps it interesting and fun. Definitely worth a follow if you like a short form foodie vid done well. I have to give a nod to Jules Mak too. Have never seen a man put a menu together all from his head in the space of hours and make it slap. Understands flavour in a way that elevates our food and stands by our motto of simple food, cooked well. Has shown me a thing or two but to have him by my side drives me on. Wouldn’t be where I am now without oul Julesy.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
That old saying, “they may not remember what they ate but they will remember how you made them feel” — experience is everything. Good food does not outweigh bad service. Careless staff will sink the ship but if you get a couple who care and create a lovely little ethos/environment, that’s the secret ingredient. If the kitchen and front of house teams are happy I guarantee they will perform better. Treat them well and have a nice environment for them to work in.
parrillaranelagh.com
Imagery via Daniel Geesen Photography.
Also Read
