Irish designer Jonathan Anderson has made his much-anticipated Dior womenswear debut. Stylist Corina Gaffey takes us inside the collection, exploring the vision, drama and details shaping this new chapter for the house.
In a video that has taken hold on social media, Jonathan Anderson, the Irish-born and Dior’s newly appointed creative director, is seen welling up as he watches the finale of his very first Dior womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week.
Months of speculation, anticipation and work culminate in this moment; it’s no wonder the emotion is so raw. And as Anderson walked out to take his bow, he was greeted by a standing ovation.
Making his mark on the storied fashion house, it follows the buzz he generated from his Dior menswear show back in June. But of course, pressure was no doubt mounting to see if his Dior vision could translate just as effectively to womenswear.
The womenswear show, set in a tent in the Tuileries Gardens, opened with a short film projected on a large screen, featuring the words: “Do you dare enter…the House of Dior? Spliced together by Adam Curtis, the film wove archival footage of previous creative directors and horror movies. It was a direct invitation into Anderson’s Dior, one that honoured the previous house codes, but also proved he’s not afraid to push boundaries, unsettle, and explore fresh sartorial territories.
This tension between heritage and subversion also echoed throughout the show. The Dior codes that have become signatures of the French fashion house were reinvented and revisited under Anderson’s lens. The bar jacket, a defining Dior silhouette, came in many guises, most notably shrunken sculptural skirt suits decked out in Donegal tweed. Elsewhere, they came with cut-outs and were tied up with bows.
References to Dior’s history and nods to the visions of predecessors were sprinkled throughout the show, like the iconic embroidered petal Junon dress, which was recut into a midi length and finished off with a halterneck. Swashbuckling hats crafted by Stephen Jones and styled with blazers and cut-off denim skirts, or puff-ball floral dresses, recalled John Galliano’s tenure.
Speaking to the press in a preview before the show, Anderson noted that the show also explored the tension between dressing up and reality. That vision was clear on the runway, with Anderson bringing a more wearable element to the show, incorporating everyday ease.
Think pretty sheer floral blouses tucked into leather minis, or check pussybow minis, sorbet-shaded polo shirts and slacks, and wide-leg trousers cinched with twisted cumberbands – pieces that are sure to translate into commercial success.
Capes were a signature silhouette, whether cut as a navel-gazing blouse paired with jeans or knitted styles thrown over them. Tuxes have the comfy factor, with tuxedo-style jumpers coordinated with stretchy, slim-fitting trousers or capris. But it wouldn’t be an Anderson-tinged show without some drama.
Bubble hem, puffed-up skirts teamed with high-neck bow-tie shirts were just the start; what followed were crinoline-sculptural skirted dresses, strapless dresses with bow details, and panniered lace dresses.
Anderson doesn’t do straightforward pretty. Even with the romantic-coded dresses, there was subtle tension – whether it was the pleating pulled taut across the model’s shoulders, the bustle-shaped volumes in skirts, or the cut-outs in shimmering sequin dresses.
Accessories were the most coveted from the Dior collection and garnered a huge buzz across social media. Anderson brought his signature, playful narrative to the accessory line-up. Classic top-handle bags went single-handed, giving it an off-kilter feel, and were crowned the Cigale bag. Slouchy suede bags finished off with gold monogrammed logo hardware spelling Dior came instant TikTok faves.
Footwear was equally swoon-worthy. Slipper-style mules and heels were adorned with Rosettes, checks, and bows. Sparkly kitten heels adorned with rabbit ears were paired with ruched, voluminous dresses, perfectly blending fantasy and wearability.
For a more grounded, and highly wearable touch, Anderson offered two-toned, gilded loafers and pointed, blunt flats with C and D on either foot.
See more of the collection below.
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