16th Nov 2022
With fresh inspiration on the runways, it’s time to reintroduce the beauty staple signifier of a new season into your routine – a timeless touch of vinaceous colour.
The beauty equivalent of getting your favourite jumper back out, switching from rosé to red or thinking about putting the heating on, the return of bold berry tones to your beauty routine is as unmistakable a signifier of the new season as the Pumpkin Spice Latte.
A swipe of burgundy on lips or nails will always be a sophisticated touch, but making it feel new and individual is key to this season’s take. The AW22 shows were filled with modern interpretations, starting at Blumarine, where blackberry inky pouts met purple eyes, to gothic matte blackcurrant lips at Rochas, to Ferrari – yes, that Ferrari – who drove to seduce more women into the world of Ferrari with dark jammy lips enhanced with a slick layer of translucent gloss. Not forgetting the many plum-lipstick-wearing luminaries this year, from Lily James’s transformation from blonde bombshell to graphic grunge, with dark wine lips and jet black fringe for Versace above to Beyoncé atop a glittering silver horse with Botticelli waves.
New launches run from romantic soft burgundy to dark gothic hues, like Trinny London’s soft berry glossy tinted Lip Glow in Freya to the crimson-packaged collection of sultry metallic red eyeshadows and lipsticks created by Tom Ford, inspired by his spiced floral scent Jasmin Rouge.
Where lacquered lips veer into gothic vampire, look to the decadent maroons in Chanel’s bold new shades of Rouge Allure lipstick, above, the dark purple matte Lancôme lipstick inspired by Isabella Rossellini or the unique debut collection from Isamaya Ffrench – her lip-plumping mulberry gloss sits in a collection of visionary products evoking bondage, each pierced by a metal ring.
While AW22’s interpretations balanced the modern vamp lip with the minimal decoration of mostly bare luminous skin, MAC’s director of make-up artistry Terry Barber makes the case for taking a dramatic approach: “There’s always a moment for the make-up wearer when you want to go all-out and wear everything but the kitchen sink. As long as you choose eyes and lips which work together, opt for a nice balance of matte and shine and ultimately know where to stop, the options are endless for full drama.”
Catwalk and backstage photography by Stefan Knauer and Jason Lloyd-Evans. Additional photography by Versace and Getty. We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site. This article originally appeared in the Autumn issue of IMAGE Magazine.