Conor Gadd of the newly-opened Burro in Covent Garden shares his life in food
Belfast-born chef Conor Gadd shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Burro is the first solo venture from Conor Gadd, chef co-owner of beloved Islington institution Trullo. Belfast-born, Conor trained under Michelin-starred chef Paul Rankin at Belfast’s Roscoff restaurant before continuing his studies at Ballymaloe Cookery School. He was named in the Murphia List, celebrating the very best of Irish talent shaping London’s food and drink scene.
Burro reflects the generous, produce-led cooking and warm hospitality that have defined Trullo for more than 16 years, values Conor believes are shared between his native Ireland and his beloved Italy, where hospitality is centred around the kitchen table.
The team has collaborated with fellow Belfast-born artist Dan Ferguson, whose feature canvas depicting an Italian scene spans almost an entire wall, creating a striking focal point within the space.
Conor Gadd shares with us his life in food.
What are your earliest memories of food?
In terms of dishes, soup, lasagne and beef-stuffed with olives. But food as an entity, was the fact it created conversation.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
Comfortable!
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
Pasta with tomato sauce. I remember my mum teaching me how to cook it.
How did working with food become your career?
My first job as a KP, a chef threw an onion at my head from about ten yards away and hit me square. Everyone laughed and I just thought that was class. This is where I need to spend my life.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
Black coffee.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
To start, things on toast. Anchovies with butter, slow cooked greens with olive oil. Then a big joint of beef or a whole fish. Tonnes of roast potatoes, a salad and some aioli. Dessert, someone else can bring, delegation is key. Wine, lots of good wine.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
Kathleen Brennan, Betty Hall (Kathleen and Betty were my childminders growing up, and without doubt had the biggest influence on me), Tim Siadatan. Darina Allen also deserves a shout out.
What would your last meal on earth be?
British queens, butter, white truffle.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Chicken fried rice.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
I’m always tired and hungry so unsure how to answer this…
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
Kidneys from any animal.
Hangover cure?
Bacon sandwich, coffee and a brandy with the right company.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Somewhere in the middle.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
Had you asked me this a year ago, I would have said Pilgrims in Rosscarberry but sadly it closed. I love The Dock Wall in Union Hall.
Best coffee in Ireland?
5a Coffee on Lockview Road in Belfast or Drip coffee in Rosscarberry, the one by the beach in particular.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
Having not lived in Ireland for so long, it is difficult to comment. But every time I go back the food is absurdly good. Ireland has been on the world stage for so many reasons for so long, the food is now joining that stage and that’s amazing. It will only continue to get better.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
The process of it is very relaxing. As someone who is quite chaotic, a kitchen brings me peace.
What does food, sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc – mean to you?
Food is just such a good mechanism for, well pretty much everything. It means that everything else can be out on hold while people eat and catch up.
Food for thought, What are some areas for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
Tough question! Not improvement, just want it to be brave, back yourself. Being Irish means it doesn’t always come easy, but is worth doing as the food is amazing.
Chef’s kiss – Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
I am good friends with Meera Sodha, a world class cook. I recently found myself on the receiving end of her lamb biryani. Unreal.
Compliments to the chef, Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
My two head chefs, Ed Grace and Conor Geoffryes are talents the likes of which aren’t seen everyday. They will go on to do amazing things.
Secret ingredient – What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
People. And wine, lots of good wine.
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