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A dermatologist’s one year guide to bridal skincare prep
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A dermatologist’s one year guide to bridal skincare prep

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by Holly O'Neill
23rd Mar 2024
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Prepping for glowing skin for your wedding day? Professor Nicola Ralph, consultant dermatologist and co-founder of The Institute of Dermatologists details a chronological 12-month timeline of what to do – and what not to do – for brides-to-be.

MEET THE EXPERT

Professor Nicola Ralph, consultant dermatologist and co-founder of The Institute of Dermatologists

12 months in advance

The skincare to know

Let’s start with skincare products. If you have no specific skin conditions, then all products may be suitable for you to use, but the two most vital for all of us to prevent ageing and to improve skin texture, tone and pigmentation are the addition of a topical retinol/retinoid to your evening routine and sunscreen in the morning. By starting early you get the maximum benefit from these products over months, while making sure none of the negative side effects appear on the big day, as your skin has time to adjust.

My go-to favourite for all skin types is the Elta MD UV Clear Sunscreen, €58 (also available in a tinted version). This sunscreen is particularly suitable for acne/rosacea prone skin and combines hero ingredients such as niacinamide which has an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin reducing redness, and also hyaluronic acid which plumps the skin creating that glow we all want. It also most importantly contains a physical sunscreen to prevent damage from the UV rays which can result in broken capillaries and sunspots/brown marks on the face. Using this daily leads to a smoother, more uniform appearance of the skin and prevents against the development of fine lines and wrinkles as well as reducing the risk of skin cancer.

The addition of a topical retinol/retinoid to one’s skincare routine in the evening is the next most important step in improving skin texture, pigment reduction and improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as it works by stimulating collagen as well as increasing cell turnover to create those fresh new skin cells giving you the ultimate glow. My all-time favourite is Alpharet Overnight Cream by Skinbetter Science, €156. This formula contains both alpha hydroxyacid (AHA) and a patented slow-release retinoid, making it suitable for even the most sensitive skin. Many people report improvement in their skin texture within days to weeks, however, I like to think of using a topical retinoid as more of a marathon than a sprint and you need three to six months to see its true benefit, therefore starting off 12 months in advance of your special day means you will be truly glowing by the time the day comes around!

The treatments to try

Now let’s get on to the even more exciting part, the procedures… If you are considering injectables such as anti-wrinkle injections (Botox) the best thing to do is give yourself as much time as possible. Ideally, I would start my patients on their treatment journey 12 months in advance of their big day so they can discuss their skin concerns, what they hope to achieve and plan the downtime and the cost accordingly. (Don’t forget you may also have multiple parties, your hen etc., in the weeks/months leading up to the special day which you also want your skin to be radiant for).

There is nothing quite like anti-wrinkle injections to give your skin that smooth appearance we all love, leaving you with the perfect canvas for your make-up to glide on to for your special day. Some brides may also have particular concerns they wish to be addressed, such as a strong frown “elevenses” which can make some of us look like we are permanently angry, or the “crow’s feet” that appear more obvious around the eyes when we smile. This is a particular target area for brides for their wedding photos, especially if you are getting married on a sunny day!

Another is the “gummy smile” which can be addressed by using anti-wrinkle injections in the area just below the nose/above the lip. Anti-wrinkle injections work by weakening selected facial muscles so that they temporarily cannot pull on the overlying skin, thus reducing wrinkling. The effects last approximately three months however this can be longer in some individuals when done on a regular basis over time. Ideally, a bride should try it well in advance to achieve the look they desire and then book their final set of injections four weeks pre-wedding, so that if any tweaks are required in advance of the wedding day, this can be done and the small risk of any tiny bruises is also gone in time for their special day.

9 months in advance

Lasers

If some of your skin concerns for your special day include redness, broken capillaries, hyperpigmentation/sunspots, coarse skin texture, enlarged pore size or acne scarring then you may want to consider lasers. There are different treatments for each specific skin concern, but beware, some come with downtime, hence the need for advanced planning.

Secret PRO

Secret PRO is by far my favourite treatment as it addresses multiple skin concerns – including textural changes, acne scarring, skin laxity, lines and wrinkles and enlarged pores– in one go! It harnesses the power of two treatment modalities, radiofrequency microneedling and CO2 laser. Depending on your style of outfit for your special day, it can also be used on the neck and décolletage (including the delicate eye area to improve the thin, crepey skin commonly seen at this site).

This is a treatment that requires downtime post-procedure and also some months to see the true benefits of collagen/elastin stimulation, so starting nine months pre-wedding day gives you the perfect amount of time to have the radiant skin you desire.

Downtime post-procedure ranges from five to seven days depending on the areas treated and you should expect a sensation of heat, redness and swelling immediately post-treatment and at approximately day three to four, some peeling of the skin which usually lasts up to five to seven days. After one week, your new glowing skin will be revealed and as the months progress ,collagen/elastin stimulation occurs resulting in tighter/firmer skin.

IPL

For those who have specific concerns regarding redness/broken capillaries (rosacea-prone skin) or pigmentation/sunspots, you may wish to consider IPL (intense pulsed light). This treatment works by sending pulses of highly concentrated light to the affected areas targeting red and brown in the skin. Any pigmented areas may start to flake over the coming days post-procedure and there is very temporary redness/swelling post-procedure. This is essentially considered a lunchtime procedure as the downtime is so minimal and you can wear make-up straight afterwards.

Ideally, a course of four treatments, one month apart, is recommended, however, some people with more significant pigmentation/broken capillaries may require six sessions, so ideally starting this treatment at nine months prior to your special day gives you plenty of time to reap the rewards.

6 months in advance

Injectables

Do you wish for the ultimate glow for your special day? Then you may want to consider other injectables such as Philart Eyes/Philart Next or Profhilo, both of which contain hyaluronic acid which plumps the skin, resulting in an instantaneous glow we all love.

For those who are also doing other injectables such as anti-wrinkle injections, they may wish to combine this with Profhilo for the mid/lower face (as it is injected from the outer aspect of the eye downwards, but it does not treat the forehead which anti-wrinkle injections do). It may also be used for the neck and décolletage.

Profhilo contains hyaluronic acid, which is naturally produced in the skin but reduces as we age. It is used to revitalise the skin from within, spreading underneath the skin’s surface like warm honey drawing in water, resulting in improved hydration of the skin as well as collagen and elastin stimulation. This creates the rejuvenated, glowing complexion we all want. Ideally, two treatments are recommended, approximately one month apart, however, some patients may require a third treatment depending on how dull/dehydrated their skin is. While some report an immediate improvement after one session, the best results are seen from four weeks after the second treatment. However, HA has slow-release properties so the skin will continue to show improved hydration, firmness and elasticity over the months leading up to your special day.

For those who do not wish to use anti-wrinkle injections, they may prefer the option of Philart which combines both hyaluronic acid and polynucleotides, as this can be used to treat the entire face for full face rejuvenation, and may also be used for the eye area and for the neck and décolletage.

Polynuclerotides and HA both enhance the skin’s natural ability to retain moisture, resulting in a more hydrated and youthful appearance. As a standalone therapy, this combined formulation of polynucleotides with HA creates a synergistic effect to significantly improve skin hydration in association with fostering fibroblasts resulting in restoration and/or improvement of the skin elasticity, firmness, tone and overall appearance.

Philart requires three sessions approximately two to three weeks apart. The downtime is minimal. One can use make-up immediately post-procedure but may have multiple small bumps under the skin’s surface which usually resolve within 24 hours. The results last from six to 12 months.

PRP

Not to forget those who want an even more natural approach to glowing skin… consider PRP (platelet-rich plasma) also known as the vampire facial!

This is a fantastic treatment for those looking for full face rejuvenation (including the thin skin of the eyes). The platelet-rich plasma is extracted from your own blood so there is no risk of an allergic or adverse reaction. A small vial of blood is drawn, then a centrifuge is used to separate the red blood cells from the platelets and growth factors, which is then injected into the face using a tiny needle. It promotes collagen production and kickstarts the skin’s regenerative capabilities. Growth factors in the plasma increase collagen and elastin production, stem cell proliferation and vascular formation. This produces a plumping and tightening effect and the treated area appears more hydrated, with a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles producing a regenerated glowing complexion that looks smoother and more youthful!

There is minimal downtime for this procedure and two sessions are recommended, one month apart. Some people will see improved hydration within weeks but overall improved skin tightness, firmness and glow will be seen over the coming months. Exactly what you need just in time for that special day.

3-6 months in advance

Skin actives

If you really want to up your skincare routine you may wish to consider the addition of skin actives, such as acids. Acids including AHAs (lactic/glycolic acid) and BHAs (salicyclic acid) help to improve many skin concerns such as skin prone to acne breakouts, dullness, textural issues and hyperpigmentation. However, not all acids are the same… they come in a variety of formulas such as cleansers, toners, exfoliating gels and pads. My all-time favourite is a chemical toner (avoid physical rubbing at the skin as this can lead to skin breakouts and irritation of sensitive skin) My go-to “magic in a bottle” is Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50, €69. This is a combination chemical toner which helps to balance the skin’s pH while gently exfoliating away those old dead skin cells leaving you with glowing skin!

Chemical peels

Alternatively, you may consider chemical peels which use a combination of acids to exfoliate the top layers of the skin to improve texture, pigmentation, acne-prone skin and superficial fine lines. A combination of acids are used depending on your skin concern. Often, one completes a course of peels on a monthly basis to address all of the above concerns. This is a pain-free procedure with only a slight sensation of heat/tingling as the peel is being applied and there is minimal downtime. One can wear make-up the next day but should expect light peeling from day three to four onward for up to seven to ten days. With each session, you will notice more radiant skin with a reduction in pigmentation, pore size and overall improved luminosity with smoother skin texture. Exactly the canvas you are looking for, so that your make-up sits perfectly on your special day!

The month before

The countdown is on! The procedures are all complete and it is time for your final anti-wrinkle injection appointment. Don’t forget, no exercise immediately post injection, so that Pilates class will have to wait until tomorrow! You still have time for further tweaks so if more botulinum toxin is required two weeks pre-wedding, this can still be done.

Skincare

Really concentrate on your skincare routine! Skin turnover takes approximately 21-28 days so you really want to be strict with continuing the daily sunscreen use and regular use of your nightly topical retinoid for the ultimate glow on your special day. If you are using a regular toner continue with this until one week pre-wedding. The last week is all about hydration!

If you are feeling stressed with all the last-minute changes, seating plans and outfit alterations, then you may be in need of some downtime. You may wish to consider a bespoke facial especially for those with eczema, acne or rosacea-prone skin. Consider having a tailored Biologique Recherche Restorative facial but not in the days leading up the wedding… we don’t want any risk of breakouts, the time is now, one month pre-wedding!

The week before

Hydration

Don’t do anything crazy, we don’t want any crises in the days leading up to the big day! Don’t alter your skincare routine by introducing any new products, especially skin actives such as acids, as they can cause irritation of the skin. Instead, stick to your daily routine, stay well hydrated and get as much sleep as possible. If you have any tendency to dryness from using your retinoid or acids then you can pause this for the week leading up to your special day, our focus now is on hydration, hydration, hydration for the ultimate radiance.

If you are considering eyelashes or brow tinting, ensure you have done this in the past. There’s nothing worse than trying something new in the week before the wedding and having an allergic reaction, so only stick to what you know works well for you!

The night before

Skincare

You made it! Ensure an early night, but firstly don’t forget to complete your nightly skincare routine. Double cleanse with a creamy cleanser, pat the skin dry and avoid rubbing at it to prevent irritation. Then slather the skin in a hydrating moisturiser to seal in all of that moisture so you wake up glowing.

Consider products containing hyaluronic acid which plumps the skin and ceramides such as Elta MD Barrier Renewal Complex, €82 (ideal for sensitive/rosacea-prone skin) or CeraVe with its slow-release moisturising technology. Lastly don’t forget your lips, you want the perfect pout for all of those photos so layer a generous helping of Vaseline or Aquaphor across those lips before you hit the pillow!

The day of the wedding

You will have likely trialled your make-up well in advance of your big day, but today is all about the perfect base for your nuptial glow. So avoid products containing oil or heavy silicone which can irritate the skin and instead opt for options containing water-based formulas, which feel lightweight and non-greasy to the touch. Don’t forget to pack some extra make-up for touch-ups for the photos, as it doesn’t last all day after all those congratulatory hugs and kisses! Now it’s time to shine on your super special wedding day!

To make a booking at The Cosmetic Suite at The Institute of Dermatologists, call 01 912 3030 or email info@instituteofdermatologists.ie. See The Institute of Dermatologists website for more information.

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