The Pocketbook: Creative Director Robin Te McGonigle’s guide to Seoul

Creative Director at CMR Creative Agency, Robin Te McGonigle has been living in Seoul since October 2020, when she and her husband felt the time was right for change. From Clare to Galway for college, and from Galway to Dublin to work on the visual merchandising team at Topshop, Robin was living and working in London when Covid hit.

“London no longer felt like the vibrant city it once was,” Robin tells me. “I wanted to experience life in Seoul, where my husband is from. It was important to me to spend more time with his family, gain a deeper understanding of his culture, and learn the language. Moving to Seoul felt like the right choice to build a stronger connection and embrace a new chapter. Looking back, it was the best decision we could have made—especially now, with Seoul being such an exciting, dynamic city full of energy and new opportunities.”

“Seoul’s blend of tradition and modernity truly captivated me,” Robin says of falling in love with her new home. “The city pulses with vibrant energy, where bustling streets, historic palaces, and scenic parks create a perfect harmony of old and new.”

“What truly sets Seoul apart, though, is the warmth of its people. I’ve encountered so many kind and welcoming individuals, making this city feel like home. I also deeply appreciate the kindness and generosity of the Korean people. They’re incredibly open-minded and always willing to help, and it’s been a true joy to experience their hospitality firsthand.”

Read on for Robin Te McGonigle’s guide to Seoul…

WHERE TO EAT…

Gwangjang Market is a bustling food spot worth checking out, but here’s how I like to spend a day eating in Seoul. Start with breakfast at Bâton—definitely try the Korean corn soup, it’s a must. Afterward, grab a coffee at Travertine or Aanzee for a relaxed vibe.

For lunch, head to Donga Cold Noodles in Itaewon for an authentic Korean summer meal. Don’t forget to order the dumplings and ask for the spicy noodle sauce on the side if you’re sensitive to spice like me.

For dinner, nothing beats Korean BBQ at Ganghwa Tongtong Grilled Meat in Mangwon. Their Moksal and Samgyeopsal are the best cuts of meat. A fun fact most foreigners don’t know: all the side dishes are free to refill, so feel free to eat as much as you want! You can also ask them to replace the grill pan mid-cooking. And for the perfect drink, mix a shot of soju with beer and give it a good stir with your spoon for a somaek.

A little tip for dining in South Korea: don’t wait for the server to come to you. Subtly trying to get their attention rarely works. Instead, if there’s a table call bell, use it. If not, don’t be shy—just speak loudly across the room to get their attention. It might feel awkward at first, but it’s completely normal here and not considered rude at all. You’ll blend in like a local!

WHERE TO DRINK…

I love a cocktail bar for a negroni. Gil Bar Dak and Hills & Europa in Haebangchon are favourites—definitely try the cream pudding dessert at Hills! For a rooftop vibe in the summer, NEGA in Samgakji is perfect. Samgakji is a great neighbourhood for bars, especially natural wine spots, so it’s one of my go-to areas to unwind after a long week. If you’re in the mood to party into the night, check out Nyapi, Ring, Modeci, and Vita—they’re all fantastic spots to keep the fun going.

BEST KEPT SECRET…

I absolutely love Euljiro, especially the Euljiro 3-ga Pocha Alley. It’s one of my favourite spots in Seoul for a real authentic experience. The pochas here have this old-school vibe, with street food, casual drinking, and a laid-back atmosphere. I love grabbing a cold beer or soju while munching on comfort foods like tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), and mandu (dumplings). It’s the perfect spot to unwind, meet locals, and soak in the vibe of Seoul’s nightlife.

WHAT TO SEE & DO…

Inwangsan Forest Rest Area — I’m such a nature lover and this is one of my favourite hikes. Its rest area is a peaceful mountain library tucked within the trees, a little sanctuary away from the busy city life. Lunch after at Chebudong Janchijip for traditional Korean mountain food is the best, make sure to order Bibimguksu, Gamjajeon (potato pancake always a hit with the Irish), and a niche option I’m obsessed with Dotorimuk (acorn jelly salad) and makgeolli to drink.

You can’t visit Seoul without experiencing a Korean sauna (Jimjilbang). For an all-women’s experience, I love Spa Lei in Sinsa—it’s clean, super relaxing, myself and my girlfriends and I spend at least four hours there every time we go. I recommend ordering the Jaeyook (spicy stir-fried pork) in the spa restaurant and then to refresh after the hot rooms, an ice cold Sikhye (rice punch). If you prefer a mixed-gender sauna, Sparex is a great option that’s also foreigner-friendly as the staff speak some English in both.

Namsan Tower is nice, I like to take the cable car up to save the legs because Seoul is hilly, then hike down to Eopseutaending Coffee for a nice iced coffee and stroll around the Haebangchon Sinheung Market.

For vintage finds, Dongmyo Market on weekends is perfect and also great for people-watching. Iksandong is a charming area full of cozy cafes and picturesque narrow streets, if you’re in the area no harm in stopping by.

Gyeongbokgung Palace is a cultural must-see! I always treat myself to bingsu (shaved ice) or tea at a traditional tea house like Cha-tteul. Another favourite thing I love to do is take a walk through Bukchon Hanok Village, where you can see traditional Korean houses still occupied by locals. Nearby, Irasun Bookstore and Victoria Bakery Seochon are also lovely spots to check out.

For yoga lovers like myself, head to Yoga Story in Seoul Forest for a calming session, followed by a coffee at Center Coffee. Alternatively, my own local studio Yoga Hoppipolla with Seohee, she is the sweetest instructor and very welcoming, I always bring my friends who visit along!