Suesey Street manager and The Restaurant host John Healy shares his life in food
John Healy shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
John Healy is the general manager at Suesey Street, opened by the Kelly family in 2006. He is also well known for playing host on the beloved Irish show, The Restaurant. Here, he shares his life in food.
What are your earliest memories of food?
When I was younger, I have fond memories of making my school lunch. I would make delicious egg salad sandwiches, and I became a gourmet sandwich expert and the envy of all my classmates.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
At work, it’s passion, balancing texture, seasoning and flavour. We look at food as art on a plate. At home, it’s good ingredients, keeping it simple, and there are lots of great food places around the area where I live at Grand Canal Dock. I also love shopping in food stores with lots of interesting and high-quality produce; it’s what makes food sing.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
Roast chicken with roast potatoes and grilled lamb cutlets with mint sauce and salad, which was a college favourite. My mother would call me from work and instruct me on what to do, from heating the oven to prepping the chicken and potatoes and knowing the cooking times. She was amazing!
How did working with food become your career?
It was a complete accident. At Leaving Cert level, I went to every premises in Naas asking for a job and finally got one in a lounge in a small hotel. I loved the work and social aspect.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
My usual is a banana with toast and a good coffee. On weekends, it’s poached eggs with avocado toast. If we are staying in a hotel, it has to be the full Irish! I also enjoy fresh fruit at breakfast time.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
To impress, we usually pull out the stops with an elevated antipasti table. There’s usually salmon, garlic prawns, cheeses, a selection of cold meats like prosciutto and salami, and seasonal salads such as red cabbage slaw, mixed leaves with lemon and olive oil, and, of course, bruschetta. It’s grazing at its best.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
My mother was a fantastic cook and dinner party queen in the ‘80s. She hosted beautiful dinners and had amazing China and king’s silver cutlery to serve dishes on, which looked spectacular.
Professionally, it’s John Torode, with whom I worked when we opened Mezzo in London in 1995. Mezzo was a Conran (Sir Terence Conran) restaurant that helped launch a new generation of dining, proving that good food and mass appeal could go hand in hand. John was extremely talented and dynamic in the kitchen and still is. He would control the pass with around 15 chefs working for him. The dining room at Mezzo seated 350, and it was inspiring to watch him control it.
What would your last meal on earth be?
Juicy, medium-rare rib eye steak, béarnaise sauce, watercress salad and good tripled cooked fries.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
I usually go for a roast organic breast of chicken marinated in ginger, chilli and garlic. I make the best roast potatoes and have a side of peas or corn.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
A well-made toastie. I love mine on a batch bread with thick slices of ham, Swiss cheese, tomato and onion with English mustard.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
Too much garlic in anything turns me off.
Hangover cure?
A cold pint of Guinness, toast with butter and marmalade, or a really good Bloody Mary are my go-to hangover cures. They haven’t failed me yet!
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury. I don’t really have a sweet tooth and always crave savoury dishes. I’m more of a cheese plate than dessert kind of person.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Something is comforting and nostalgic about good pub grub. It’s food that you want to enjoy with a pint of Guinness and great company. You can’t beat it.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
That’s a difficult one as it depends on so much. What’s my stress level like? What am I in the mood for, and how much do I want to spend? I like The Old Spot, which is within walking distance of my home in Beggar’s Bush. Denise runs a super gastro pub restaurant, and the food is always fab.
I love authentic Thai food, so I visit Nightmarket in Ranelagh regularly. Jutarat Suwankeeree, known affectionately as ‘R’, is a fantastic chef, and her husband Conor Sexton is front of house and a passionate restaurant host.
I must say I’m very fond of one of our new additions to the industry, which is Lena in Portobello, a sister restaurant of Etto and Uno Mas. Super service with a great team and great food. I’ve always loved that room by the canal.
Best coffee in Ireland?
Roasted Brown, which is served in our coffee kiosk, Sister Suesey, just on Leeson Street Bridge. You can tell it’s a labour of love for owner Ferg. His passion for coffee is unrivalled.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
I think it’s going from strength to strength. We have excellent local produce, great chefs, fantastic restaurants, not only in Dublin but all over the country. Ireland’s foodie influencers are usually accurate when promoting great food places and are very good at spreading the word. We are never short of a new opening, and the stage is constantly changing to suit what customers want. I have watched the restaurant scene change so much over the past 20 years, from fine dining during the Celtic Tiger to pub grub in this decade. Now we have trending cuisines such as Indian, Mexican and South American. We also have a great coffee and wine bar scene offering fantastic, affordable food and a great experience.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
Watching my husband Jovan cook, he is super. Jovan has become a great chef and works in our sister venue, No. 25 Fitzwilliam Place. His skill has grown and developed over the past ten years. I still do the odd roast, however.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?
Because of the nature of what I do, I often don’t eat a lot at work, so it’s important that when we’re off the clock that we put back in what we are missing in our weekly meal plan.
As eating out has become more expensive, we do a lot of entertaining at home. Life is too short to miss the good times, and I love good food and nice wine with good friends, and we always have great craic. It’s hugely important to us!
Food for thought — what are some areas for improvement within the Irish hospitality scene?
Running a restaurant has become more challenging as the cost of doing business keeps rising, with no real sign of easing. In order for independent businesses to flourish, we need a plan on how we navigate higher costs.
Chef’s kiss — tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
Table 45 last week! A Chilean tapas restaurant on Fenian St. The food was delicious, and it’s a very vibey restaurant. Super stuff!
Compliments to the chef — now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
I prefer family-run restaurants or a husband-and-wife team, as the passion comes through the food that’s created. I think 1828 Adare always delivers; Wade Murphy and his wife, Elaine, keep pushing culinary boundaries and create a fantastic experience.
Secret ingredient — what, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
Great, friendly service. You will forgive an average food experience if the service is great, but not the reverse.
Also Read
