Black lipstick: Here’s how to pull it off
Black lipstick: Here’s how to pull it off

Jennifer McShane

‘Meghan is right. Working mothers do have to choose between being present or being paid
‘Meghan is right. Working mothers do have to choose between being present or being paid

Amanda Cassidy

What to try this weekend: Gluten-free vegan churros with a caramel dipping sauce
What to try this weekend: Gluten-free vegan churros with a caramel dipping sauce

Meg Walker

How to increase your confidence and why it’s crucial
How to increase your confidence and why it’s crucial

Niamh Ennis

The scariest thing about Halloween? Competitive parenting
The scariest thing about Halloween? Competitive parenting

Sophie White

Add some colour to your living room with these punchy cushion designs
Add some colour to your living room with these punchy cushion designs

Megan Burns

Five perfect matte lipsticks that your mask won’t budge
Five perfect matte lipsticks that your mask won’t budge

Holly O'Neill

Slightly Christmassy movies that are totally acceptable to watch before Halloween
Slightly Christmassy movies that are totally acceptable to watch before Halloween

Lauren Heskin

This Glenageary home with a charming double-height extension is on the market for €1.875 million
This Glenageary home with a charming double-height extension is on the market for €1.875 million

Megan Burns

Surrogacy: ‘As soon as I lay a foot on Irish soil I become a legal stranger to my son’
Surrogacy: ‘As soon as I lay a foot on Irish soil I become a legal...

Amanda Cassidy

Image / Living

A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination


by Eoin Higgins
08th Oct 2020
A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination

Top Irish sommelier, Nisea Doddy, from Dublin’s grand Shelbourne Hotel recalls an amazing meal at a special restaurant at one of her favourite destinations.


 

I’ve enjoyed so many food moments and meals that changed me and are forever in my memory.

From a plate of new homegrown potatoes with butter and salt and nothing else, eaten outside in the sun at my grandparents’ house in Roscommon when I was about five, to the first time I tasted pesto in Pasta Fresca (long gone) – I was 17, it blew me away, a bit like the first time I ate wasabi thinking it was avocado … you can imagine!

I went travelling in my twenties, including to Australia. I fell so in love with the country that a planned three-month stay turned into 18 months.

 

Streaky Bay razorfish and gubinge, courtesy of Restaurant Orana

 

I had read Bruce Chatwin’s travel book The Songlines about Aboriginal outback nomadic culture and how everything is connected, including food.

I was excited to see this for myself. It was a shock, however, when I saw the hardship of native Australians’ daily existence – unemployment, addiction, sickness and disregard of their culture. This was in 1999.

So a full circle of life later, in late January, this year, I returned to Australia. This time not as a hippy backpacker but as a guest of Wine Australia.

The itinerary was packed with the best of the best but the first dinner was the one that raised my jet-lagged spirits more than I thought possible. We were dining at Restaurant Orana, in Adelaide …

 

Scarlet prawn, with crocodile lardo and boab; warrigal greens and eucalyptus, courtesy of Restaurant Orana

 

We were to have a tasting menu, but one with a difference. Chef/owner Jock Zonfrillo focuses on Australian native ingredients sourced through Aboriginal communities.

This was food I had never, EVER tasted before: think scarlet prawn, with crocodile lardo and boab, above; warrigal greens and eucalyptus.

The ingredients Jock uses are not to salve a social conscience … they work. They are breathtaking. Even the potato damper bread and lamb butter (whipped roast lamb fat) was fought over.

 

Jock Zonfrillo’s dining room where he uses indigenous ingredients to showcase Australia’s modern gastronomic identity, courtesy of Restaurant Orana

 

The bread was skewered on eucalyptus and cooked on coals at the table and then served with “soup soup”, featuring crocodile and Australian botanicals.

Then there was a dish combining Dorrigo pepper, toro with Davidson’s plum and wagyu beef … they were bites of tender, rich, meaty purity. Abalone and gubinge fruit was chewy (good chewy) and sweet.

The room we ate in was small – simple and elegant – with a huge wine island centerpiece laden with fabulous decanters, glassware and wines.

At the end of the 16 courses, jet-lag no longer mattered. Six people I had just met were now my friends. We laughed and told stories and felt comfortable.

And happily a lot had changed since 1999 … aboriginal culture and indigenous food has had a chance to become recognised and celebrated, and the supply chain more controlled.

And all of this made me deeply happy. I felt like that backpacking adventurer again.

 


 

Read more: A meal that changed my life – restaurateur Elaine Murphy recall a dining experience at a special destination

Read more: Expert View: Will the pandemic change Irish restaurants forever?

Read more: A meal that changed my life – chef JP McMahon recalls an incredible meal at a very special destination

Also Read

A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination
FOOD & DRINK
Forget trying a million recipes – these are the best cookies that are perfect every time

By Shayna Sappington

A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination
BREAKING STORIES, CULTURE
A reminder of the harrowing details of Britney Spears’ conservatorship

Britney Spears’ father said in a court filing Friday that there are “no grounds whatsoever” for removing him from the...

By Jennifer McShane

A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination
CULTURE
I’ll Be Gone In The Dark is the gripping true crime drama you may have missed

HBO’s docuseries detailing Michelle McNamara’s obsessive hunt for the Golden State Killer has added a bonus episode after it was...

By Jennifer McShane

A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination
CULTURE
Filming has begun on the TV adaptation of Graham Norton’s debut novel down in West Cork

ITV confirmed that Graham Norton’s debut novel ‘Holding’ will be made into a four-part series for the channel with filming...

By Sarah Finnan

A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination
FOOD & DRINK
What to eat this week: Kerala vegan cauliflower curry

This vegan curry is simple, hearty and quick – the perfect weeknight dinner.Cauliflower makes a fantastic curry ingredient, as its...

By Meg Walker

A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination
CULTURE
Ellie Goulding on fame, gym obsessions and ‘debilitating’ panic attacks

We are quick to judge those in the public eye for seemingly having it all. We scoff when they ask...

By Jennifer McShane

A meal that changed my life – a top Irish sommelier recalls dinner at a special destination
BUSINESS, FOOD & DRINK
Griolladh’s unbeatable toastie trucks have a cult following and it’s deliciously justified

Griolladh’s unbeatable toasties have become a viral sensation, growing from a chain of food trucks to (soon to be) brick-and-mortar...

By IMAGE