Co-founder of The Tannery Restaurant Máire Flynn on her life in food

Opening The Tannery in Dungarvan, Waterford with her husband Paul in 1997, restaurateur Máire Flynn knows a thing or two about good food, and perfecting a quality dining experience.

Credited as one of the most original and welcoming destinations in Irish food, The Tannery entered into the Hall of Fame at the Food & Wine Restaurant of the Year Awards last year. A true Irish food success story, Máire and Paul have been serving up authentic food and flavours for over 25 years now.

Here, Máire Flynn shares her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

My earliest memory of food is when I was very small, maybe age three or four, having breakfast in bed with my mother which was a huge treat – boiled eggs and toast.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

I think I have a fairly healthy relationship with food. I always have to rein it in a bit but I try not to obsess about it. I try to exercise and keep things in moderation to balance it out.

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

Shepherd’s pie.

How did food become a part of your career?

I sort of fell into it when I met my husband. It wasn’t on my trajectory and little did I know when I was 21 that a career in food was for me.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

I never eat breakfast – normally, I have a big cup of tea which my husband brings up to me every morning. On the rare occasion I do eat breakfast, I like something sweet like a biscuit or slice of cake.

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

Copper Coast Lobster is a go-to.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

I love Nigel Slater recipes.

What would your last meal on earth be?

This is a very hard question. I think probably roast beef with all the trimmings and horseradish sauce

What’s your go-to comfort food?

A takeaway from Eunice Power’s  AndChips in Dungarvan – delicious fresh fish and chips.

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

Scrambled eggs on toast.

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

Coleman’s English Mustard is probably the only thing I cannot eat.

Hangover cure?

Tea, tea and more tea.

Sweet or savoury?

Savoury.

Fine dining or pub grub?

I probably prefer more casual but if you want a mix of both, Spitalfields in Dublin is the place to go.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

Campagne, Kilkenny.

Best coffee in Ireland?

Cass & Co in Dungarvan serve the best coffee.

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

White wine – a sauvignon from the Loire is my favourite.

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

I think it’s the most exciting time for food we have ever had in Ireland and I am envious of the young food people out there not constrained by traditional thinking who have the chance to experiment in lots of different ways – be it with food trucks, pop-ups or residencies without committing to a formal restaurant.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

The process and mindfulness involved and how the end result can make people so happy.

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc. — mean to you?

To cook and eat with friends is our favourite thing to do at home and is our social life. We have had the best nights (and days) with the best friends sitting at our kitchen table, often with very simple food.

Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

Yes, I think there really is. Often hospitality is still not really considered a real career and working in restaurants is still considered a very transient experience. There are multiple reasons for this, many of which have been addressed in recent years such as pay and working conditions but we have a long way to go.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

I was lucky enough to eat at Dede in West Cork in August and it truly was an outstanding experience. The talent, dedication, and work that goes into serving such brilliant food is mind-blowing.

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

I have huge respect for long-standing family-owned restaurants and the Shamrock in Dungarvan is one such establishment. They consistently serve family favourites and celebrate their 43rd anniversary this year. It’s always our Friday lunchtime treat.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

No more than eight people at the table – any more and the conversation becomes too fractured – simple food that doesn’t take away from the host’s enjoyment and lashings of wine.