Head Chef at Ashton’s restaurant David Keane shares his life in food
David Keane shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
David Keane is Head Chef at Ashton’s Restaurant & Public House in Clonskeagh, leading the kitchen alongside Executive Consultant Derry Clarke. He brings a style of cooking that blends comfort and refinement, with quality Irish ingredients and a global influence. Growing up in a household where food and hard work went hand in hand, he learned to cook from his mother and sister Emma, whose influence continues to shape his food.
After an early detour into law and five years living in Australia — where a job in Queensland’s top steakhouse (Story Bridge Hotel) reignited his passion — he returned home, trained at Ballymaloe, and developed his craft under some of Ireland’s most respected chefs, including Darina Allen, David O’Byrne, Dan Hannigan, and Robbie McCauley. His journey has taken him from Michelin-accredited kitchens to food trucks to kitchens abroad, and he is guided by one core principle; you’re only as good as your last meal.
What are your earliest memories of food?
My earliest memories are trips with my mom to strawberry fields in Wexford. We’d make jams, chutneys and preserves together. That’s a ritual I still keep alive at one of my close friend’s farms in Mayo. My mom also taught me about ‘boxing the fox’; climbing over walls and gathering windfall apples around Dublin for crumbles and tarts.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
It’s just central to who I am, really. I grew up in a household based around food, humour and hard work, with my mom and my sister Emma nurturing my relationship with cooking. I think what first really sparked my interest in a career in food was my uncle, Paddy Edge. He spent 20 years working in the Gresham hotel kitchen and he made cooking seem like magic to me.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
It was probably steak, potatoes and veg for my dad. A classic Irish dinner for a man from the Banner county.
How did working with food become your career?
I actually pursued a Masters in Law, originally, before realising it just wasn’t my path. I moved to Australia for five years, and I was working as a bartender in the Storybridge Hotel, Queensland’s top steakhouse. Looking at the kitchen’s precision and discipline there, that reignited my passion for cooking. I came home and decided to commit to the craft, enrolling in the Ballymaloe Cookery School under the inspirational Darina Allen. That was 2015… it changed my life.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
Heston’s slow cooked scrambled eggs with lots of cream, lots of butter and chives. Maple Bacon, julienne lettuce and avo. With a kick of fresh chilli and crunchy, buttery sourdough.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
I cook Christmas lunch for 25 of my family every year – sticking to my mother’s original recipes.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
I have many! Darina, of course, she gave me my foundation. David O’Byrne – I worked under him at Richmond. He has the mantra “make food delicious”, which I love. Dan Hannigan, another inspiration. We’ve worked together in several restaurants. I helped him to set up Mister S just before Covid, we ran our foodtruck Treehouse Treats together, and more recently we worked together in Orwell road. Derry Clarke, who I have the honour of working with now at Ashton’s. His standards and mastery of cooking have taught me to keep raising the bar. Really, I’m lucky to be inspired by lots of brilliant Irish chefs, and many who I’ve had the privilege of working with.
What would your last meal on earth be?
I love desserts, so it would have to be a dessert – freshly made lemon meringue pie with Italian meringue.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Bangers and mash! It’s got to be pommes purée, the one we make here in Ashton’s is the best.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Organic Soba noodles. Quick Asian dressing and herbs from my garden.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
I don’t have one – Darina taught me that if I actively hated coriander, it’s because I chose to, so I can unchoose it. Now? I love coriander.
Hangover cure?
I like to steam clean myself in the sauna. Followed by my favourite brekkie with my wonderful partner Marcella.
Sweet or savoury?
Sweet.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Fine dining.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
Liath in Blackrock… aside from Ashton’s!
Best coffee in Ireland?
Anam’s organic coffee from Hugo’s Organic Bakery, Lahinch, roasted in Kilfenora. Worth the queue.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
It’s progressed so much in the last twenty years, it’s unrecognisable when you think about how far we’ve come. You can see so many global, multicultural influences, there is so much vibrancy and colour. Just look at how many Michelin star, bib and plates restaurants we have on the island – along with high end fast food from around the world. I can’t wait for the opening of the Smithfield market.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
The creativity, and working with my hands. I find it hard to stay still.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?
It’s everything to me. I’ve made lifelong friendships through food, and it’s such a huge part of my life I don’t know who I’d be without it. The ritual of food; choosing ingredients, tasting every flavour, bringing it all together and sharing it with the people you love… it’s magic.
Food for thought — What are some areas for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
Food security. We could work on our food sustainability and supporting local farmers more too. Shopping locally and organically is so important where possible. Check out your local farmers markets!
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
I took my partner Marcella to Liath by Damian Grey last week and it was like being hosted by a culinary angel.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
Emma, my sister. She always shared my passion for food and she had an incredible talent. She loved dinner parties and entertaining, a skill that her daughters have inherited.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
It’s all about the right mix; a casual environment, wholesome Irish produce, and a place where you can go for all occasions.
Also Read
