Your essential guide to discovering Ireland's most unforgettable journeys, Great Irish Road Trips shows readers that the real Ireland begins where the map ends.
Whether you’re chasing sunsets on cliffside roads or stumbling upon the perfect lunch in a tucked-away pub, this book offers curated routes, insider tips and stories that bring the road to life. Explore the rugged majesty of the Wild Atlantic Way, wind through the mystical landscapes of the Ancient East and uncover secret beaches, charming villages and local legends along the way.
We’ve got an extract from the newly-released title below…
The Slieve Bloom Mountains are something of an open secret in Ireland – the area definitely doesn’t have the same footfall that Wicklow or Kerry would get, but this relatively small pocket of land has some of the finest scenery around.
Linking Laois and Offaly, these gently rolling mountains are some of the oldest in Europe, and if you get to a high point on a clear day it’s said you can see the high points of all four of the ancient Irish provinces. It’s also a walker’s paradise – there are plenty of beautiful trails that weave through woodlands and up mountains, and there’s even an annual Slieve Blooms Walking Festival, usually held on the May bank holiday.
There are three official Slieve Bloom Scenic Drives, and this route loosely links two of them, the Village and Heritage Driving Route and the Glendine Driving Route. Some of the sections are signposted like the Wild Atlantic Way or Inishowen 100, but even if not, the roads are easy to follow – if rather narrow in places.
Slieve Blooms. This is more for those who want to hike – if that’s not your thing, stick to the road you were on. But if you do, allow a couple of hours to hike the 7km Glenafelly Eco Walk, which will take you through the ancient woodland.
Back on the road, you’ll drive along Ballynalack, a narrow road surrounded by thick trees, until it opens up to reveal the meadows and meandering slopes of the mountains. Keep an eye on your speed and go as slowly as you can, because there’s a sharp hairpin turn coming up, as the road snakes through the forests once more. As the road rises, the views of the mountains get better and better. There are some more hairpin turns coming, until the road spits you out near Lissenhall, where you’ll turn left on to the L1031. You’ll pass by the River Delour Picnic Area, handy if you have lunch with you, then carry on to Lacca Wood, home to some pretty trails, and the nearby Lacca Church, if you want to see either of those.
Otherwise, it’s back on the L1030 up to Killanure, turning left on the R440 and following the gently curved route all the way to Gorteenameala Eco Trail. It’s an easy enough linear trail, so you can just walk a stretch of it and turn back whenever you please. It’s a good option if you want a quick stretch of the legs.
When you’re back on the R440, you’ll head up and over the mountains for a gorgeous stretch of road that leads you all the way back to Kinnitty, the Slieve Bloom Mountains either side of you. You’ll once again pass through the dense forestry and greenery, before you’re back in the village, where you’ll head straight through on the same road (stopping for a spot of lunch if you’re hungry).
Now, you’re on the Village and Heritage driving route. Head straight out of Kinnitty on the R440, then turn left on the R421 through Clareen. Soon, you’ll drive right by Leap Castle, supposedly the most haunted castle in the world. It’s a private home but open for visitors, though you may want to call ahead, to make sure they’re open. There, you can hear stories of the bloody battles and history over the centuries, and the ghoulish sightings that the family who live there now have seen.
From there, you’ll carry on the quiet country road, nipping over the border into Tipperary to stop at Roscrea to see Roscrea Castle, Gardens and Damer House, and the Black Mills. Open from March to October, there’s a stone motte castle that dates back to the 1280s, as well as a beautiful pre-Palladian architecture house from the eighteenth-century. You can head inside the Damer House and also walk through the extensive gardens.
Heading back into Offaly, you’ll find the R445 and rejoin the loop, turning left on the L1050 – if you want to see another historic property, Ballaghmore Castle is just off the road, though it’s most commonly rented privately. Follow this road up through the hills and you’ll reach Poet’s Cottage, a replica thatched cottage that shows you what life would have looked like in rural Ireland in the 1800s. Inside, however, it’s a more contemporary community café, where you can get a coffee and a sausage roll for the road.
Soon you’ll be in Mountrath, where you’ll follow the road out to Ballyfin, one of Ireland’s most luxurious hotels. This neoclassical mansion was finished in 1826 and has been a private family home, then a boarding school, before becoming the lavish property it is today. If you’re not staying (and if you are, it’s the ultimate treat) you can book dinner in the Michelin-starred restaurant, but otherwise you’ll continue on to Mountmellick.
From there, take the R422 through the Laois countryside. If you have it in you to do another walk, then stop at the Brittas Forest Recreation Area and do the 6km loop out to see Brittas Lake (or you can drive back here on another day instead, it’s a 15 minute drive from Kinnitty).
Otherwise, the road takes you right back to your start point, and your double loop is complete.
Great Irish Road Trips by Tony Potter (Gill Life) is on sale now.
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