There was a time when the debut of a seven-foot long indoor grill would have been so newsworthy that everyone but everyone would have heard about it and rushed to get a ringside seat. Open since November, Asador has built up a steady local D4 clientele, but word is only now spreading wider about just how good it is. Suburban grown-ups are flocking in droves. We like the simplicity of the menu - deftly marinated proteins centre-stage served neat, the yummy array of trusty sides and the Chimichurri on just about anything. Hats off to chef Eric Mooney, who earned his stripes at One Pico, Chapter One and Bon Appetit. Asador, 1 Victoria House, Haddington Road, Dublin 4, (01) 254 5353.