1. Hang Dai
As for its design, this place comes from the mind behind Luna, Butcher Grill and 777 – and is easily the most overtly styled Chinese restaurant this country has ever seen. In a room that looks more Beijing nightclub filmset than Dublin dim sum house, Hang Dai specialises in pushing flourescent flavour profiles to the fore to match that vivid, in-your-face décor.
Pork dumplings: €11
The Real Deal
Probably the most grittily authentic, M&L, in the equally grittily authentic Cathedral Street in Dublin 1, is a firm favourite with intrepid native gastronomers as much as it is for Sino-expats who want a taste of home. The décor is not much to talk about but you are really here for the anthropology and what’s on the plate.
Pork dumplings: €5.80
3. China Sichuan
As the name suggests, the regional culinary influence here is Sichuan (or ‘Szechuan’ if you’d prefer), just like at M&L. As one might expect from a darling of the South County Dublin set, China Sichuan adds a layer of sophistication and luxury to proceedings. An equal favourite of ageing critics and families, the food is authentic and intricate and the entire operation runs smoothly under the watchful eye of the much-admired Kevin Hui.
Pork dumplings: €8.75