While most normal people have opinions on who wore the best dress at Sunday night’s Golden Globes (Dakota Johnson or Julianne Moore if we’ve got to give an answer. Who knew we’d fall for so much silver?), true fashion insiders spent their Monday on the lookout for news from London relating to one John Galliano. Yesterday was the last day of the London Collections: Men, London Fashion Week’s little brother for menswear, and also the long-awaited return of John Galliano. The English designer was back on runway duty after years in the fashion cold, taking up the role of creative director at Maison Martin Margiela last October. His appointment caused quite a wave. Many debated whether the elaborate couture designer was a proper fit for the understated label. Others felt the rehabilitation of Galliano after the anti-Semitic controversy in 2011 that led to his being fired from Dior and his own eponymous label was far too easily forgotten.
Regardless of what the industry and media as a whole thought, Renzo Russo, president of the Only The Brave group which owns Margiela, said the company was “ready for a new charismatic creative soul”. And if your twitter feed was anything like ours, the hashtag #MargielaMonday was as plentiful as red carpet analysis. Kate Moss, a longtime friend of Galliano and one of the highest profile names to stick with him throughout his downfall, was in attendance, as well as Manolo Blahnik. Christopher Bailey of Burberry came along too. The level of anticipation was electric. Bit did Galliano deliver?
Overall, Galliano has offered us his signature dramatics with a slightly subdued edge – the Margiela touch, no doubt. It’s all very regal and hints at the bigger personality bubbling underneath. While the show lacked the grandiose showpieces that marked Galliano’s tenure at Dior – his end of show appearances were always a big deal – this time round Galliano let the fashion speak for itself. He also managed to show his absent of late face at the end. This time round, a slight bow of acknowledgment to his peers, supporters and admirers. Galliano is back, and we say bring on the next season.
Follow Jeanne Sutton on Twitter @jeannedesutun